Installing A 2 Point Imobilizer

[FOG35]

Im having trouble installing the 2 point imobilizer into my r32. The imobilizer is built into the Black Widow alarm system (model BW10000). The instuctions say that there are 4 wires which are used for the imobilizer (2 for each point of imobilization). My understanding is that, i cut the wire in the car which i want to imobilize (eg ignition) and attach a imobilizer wire to each side of the wire (eg ignition) i just cut. After i had done this i tested it, however the ignition did not have power. i just wanted to know if what im doin is correct? help will be appreciated. thanks dean

[Chris Rogers]

you also have a wire labelled ACC. that needs to go to the key side of the IGN. otherwise car no go.

[(OO_The4door_OO)]

Easy fix.

The 2 recommended points to cut into are the starter motor wire from the ignition barrel and the fuel pump power wire.

This way your ignition is left untouched and thecar is still rendered useless in armed mode.

I've included a diagram of how to get to the starter motor wire, apply the same to the fuel pump wire. Reply if you still have any questions.

[frx026]

Hi arh32,

This is most likely going to sound harsh, but i mean it with the best intentions.

If you are not sure what you are doing take it to an authorised installer and have them put it in. An Alarm is only as good as it's instalation. If you were to follow the diagram posted on here it would take a thief about a millisecond to steal your car. Thieves target certain cars, and they know the wiring systems and what they look like, adding this type of in line immobiliser while effective against the amatuer would be no match for someone who has stolen one before.

Just read through the forums to see how many other people are now trying to recover a car because they saved " a few bucks" putting it in.

You would also find that a simple starter and fuel pump cut as described here will not be compatible with a turbo timer, so if you have one, you will have to sit in the car, or stand next to it waiting for it to finish before you can arm your engine immobiliser. Otherwise your car will efeectively run out of fuel each time, potentially causing damage to your injectors or fuel system.

Beleive me I have spent the best part of 10 years fixing up exactly what you are describing.

Now, it is not all bad, the BW10000 is an excellent alarm, i wouldnt have told the entire planet on a forum you have one, but they are excellent alarm. They do actually have 3 point immobilisation, 2 built into the box and one external.

It is possible and very achievable to have all three immobilisers hooked up and connected with a turbo timer and it all to work correctly. It just requires more wiring.

If installed correctly the turbo timer will not pose a security risk to your car either.

I cant stress enough how vitally important the instalation is.

Good luck with it.

Regards

Pj

[Chris Rogers]

I could actually tell him the colors as well ( I won't) next one I work on I'll take a few pics to share with you two. see if we do alarms the same way.

[SKYBEE]

im sorry but i have to mention this

i loath coloured wiring alarms

it just helps me disconect them ( Im a Auto Elec)

if you want a decent alarm go with something with all black wiring and has stickers on the loom that you remove

making it hard to identify wiring

but as mentioned before it all comes down to the install

cheap & dodgy install = stolen car

someone who takes time to fit alarm and immobilse circuits that cant be bypassed with a screw driver or length of wire = one happy customer with there car still

just my two cents

[Chris Rogers]

thats sounds familar

[FOG35]

  (OO_The4door_OO) said:

Easy fix.

The 2 recommended points to cut into are the starter motor wire from the ignition barrel and the fuel pump power wire.

This way your ignition is left untouched and thecar is still rendered useless in armed mode.

I've included a diagram of how to get to the starter motor wire, apply the same to the fuel pump wire. Reply if you still have any questions.

I think there must be something wrong with the alarm because this is similar to how i installed it. (i understand that if a theif saw this under the dash he could just connect them back together. I have connected each side at two totally different areas in the car). Ive used the multimeter to see if there is a circuit by arming and disarming the alarm while the multimeter is connected to each side of the imobiliser but it doesnt seem to be picking up a circuit when disarmed.

  Chris Rogers said:

I could actually tell him the colors as well ( I won't) next one I work on I'll take a few pics to share with you two. see if we do alarms the same way.

I dont think telling me the colours is going to help me as it is all black wiring!

[(OO_The4door_OO)]

  arh32 said:

I think there must be something wrong with the alarm because this is similar to how i installed it. (i understand that if a theif saw this under the dash he could just connect them back together. I have connected each side at two totally different areas in the car). Ive used the multimeter to see if there is a circuit by arming and disarming the alarm while the multimeter is connected to each side of the imobiliser but it doesnt seem to be picking up a circuit when disarmed.

I dont think telling me the colours is going to help me as it is all black wiring!

Ok, check this: where you made the join on the original wires, take the two wires which go to the alarm module and use the continuity check on you multimeter. If you don't get a staight circiut when in the disarmed mode you may have crossed the pairs. Refer to attached diagram.

One last question, is this the Shadow alarm from Jaycar Electronics???

[Chris Rogers]

blk/red - IGN

blk/wht - start.

clip those two.