Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25 with cryo treated block , crank and RB26 rods ,ACL bearings , ARP rod bolts and head stud kit , CP forged pistons, cemedic head gasket , aftermarket vavle springs , N1 oil pump , billet fly wheel , 3500 foot pound 5 puck brass button clutch , fully balanced ( optional nispro plenum , merg collector manifold , baffel sump ,) egine can be change to suit a GTS-t4 or GTR never been ran , cheap , call for details 0415359416 peter cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105815-tuff-rb25/
Share on other sites

the sump ill include , but the plenum is welded to the runners to stop ari leaks the runners have been sand blarsted and painted and polished plenum with standard RB25 thottle body with XF butterfly 900 for the plenum because of the throttle body and all the welding and polishing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105815-tuff-rb25/#findComment-1949029
Share on other sites

reciepts for Rb25 Stagea Motor parts -

tension bolts = 280

cryo treating = 300

valve springs = 300

gasket kit = 345

sump = 200

pistons and head stud kit = 1700

n1 oil pump = 400

rods = 300

racing bearings = 200

water pump = 100

porting = 400

nissan stagea motor = 1450

labour = 1400

all prices wee trade comes with cam covers painted with ash black with pearl.

PRICE = $6800 sry i had the price wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105815-tuff-rb25/#findComment-1949137
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...