Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have bits left over from my stripped R32 all in perfect condition..

complete back end, diff, axles, rear steering rack, discs, calipers, control arms, $350

front & rear seats $350

full floor carpet $100

heater core box $50

fan blower box $50

centre console rear & front where gear selector is $100

complete odometer/tacho unit to replace a faulty odometer reading $200

odometer surround with all the switchs ie: light switch/wiper switch/ demister $100

Microtech handset with cable as new $110

GENUINE ORIGINAL Front windscreen with antenna in it in perfect condition $150

All reasonable offers considered gold coast 0424608801

Edited by 3ltrr32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105821-r32-gts-t-bits/
Share on other sites

I have bits left over from my stripped R32 all in perfect condition..

complete back end, diff, axles, rear steering rack, discs, calipers, control arms, $350

front & rear seats $350

full floor carpet $100

heater core box $50

fan blower box $50

centre console rear & front where gear selector is $100

complete odometer/tacho unit to replace a faulty odometer reading $200

odometer surround with all the switchs ie: light switch/wiper switch/ demister $100

Microtech handset with cable as new $110

GENUINE ORIGINAL Front windscreen with antenna in it in perfect condition $150

All reasonable offers considered gold coast 0424608801

fan blower sold!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105821-r32-gts-t-bits/#findComment-1951572
Share on other sites

can i get pics of the rear end setup and what type are the seats pics please and do you have any bits from the front end you want to sell? Cheers willsy

eg. 5 stud hubs, top and bottom arms brakes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105821-r32-gts-t-bits/#findComment-1951963
Share on other sites

Xinhua-if you aranged freight i would sell the lot for $1300

Willsy-No front end bits at all...the rear end is complete diff, axles, steering rack, discs, calipers, mounting brace etc etc...it is ready to be bolted back up except for shocks to a GTS-T 4WS setup

the seats are standard bucket front and rear R32 GTS-t seats in new condition standard grey colour...i haven't got pics but i can organise to borrow a camera to take them if you wanted them...??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105821-r32-gts-t-bits/#findComment-1952155
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

parts sold are- the complete rear assembly, seats, microtech controller..

The carpet is the original gts-t carpet but i don't think it has the "skyline" logo in it...

The centre console i think is the textured type but i will have another look at it to confirm ill pm you if it is smooth....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105821-r32-gts-t-bits/#findComment-1985246
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...