Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys n Girls,

I have a problem with my aircon unit.

When i turn the parkers on the actual lights behind the push buttons will not turn on. (ie. ON button, OFF, TEMP >, TEMP < etc...

Its hassle at night when u can adjust the temp properly wihtout havin an accident.

The digital aircon display works fine and it dims aswell when the prakers go on.

anyone else have / had the same problem ?

possible suggestions please.

Thanks

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you search, there's a thread in here about it.

More than likely, your bulbs have blown.

There are two.. one does half a side of buttons. They are a normal globe in a swanky socket that Nissan wants $18 each for. The globes have blue rubber caps on them to make the colour a light blue/green. This also helps kill the globes in hot summer heat. There is a guide here, and on the Silvia forums on how to convert your globe sockets into LED globes, which shouldn't blow.

Thanks for ur help Randy.

I bought the pair of globes at Peps auto parts for $ 3.95

The blue caps were melted onto the old globes...so i just put the new ones in as is.

strange as both bulbs blew out at the sametime ...i thought it was a problem with the unit.

But all is well now....

Oh yea when i finishes puttin everything back together the unit would not turn on. I blew the 10Amp fuse under the dash somehow.

I was bangin my head against the wall i thought i had to strip the dash apart again. But luckily i checked the fuse panel first hehehe.

Thanks

haha mine have never worked lol, thought it was wierd that they didn't have lights in them lol (nearly 5 years haha)

how did you get to the globes? does the face just disconnect?

Jetpilot: no worries mate! I would suspect that one would blow, then the other would go later, then when the car is imported here, they're both dead. =-]

Craved: Just remove the unit like you would the head unit, and then on the back there are two holes on either side. In those holes are the back of the globe-holder. Use a flat-head scewdriver and unscrew! Then pop them out and all you need to do is buy the globes.

I'd suggest getting a 1.2watt bulb instead of 1.4watt if you're not using those rubber caps. It should not be too bright, and shouldn't melt anything if you drop the wattage.

be careful when removing all the plastic components on ur dash as once they crack or break it will never go back in flush and it will rattle.

Take ur time with. It is a lengthy job but its only becoz u have to be careful unclipin the plastic pieces out and puttin them back in.

oh yeah once u put the new globes in...make sure the unit works and lights up before refitting all the stuff.

oh yea some idiot at nissan in the service centre said the unit does not light up...thats why there are indicators on the windscreen button and recirculate button on the aircon unit.

ha...i show him for the benfit of society and job security.

LOL =-D

Nissan Australia mechanics don't really work on many Skylines, since there were only 100 R32's ever delivered to Australia. The rest are all imports and people find GOOD mechanics to work on them.

cheers for the help RANDY and Jetpilot... ive got plenty of experience taing the dash to bits.. mine been customised a fair bit by myself..

must be a fairly comon thing, cos im not sure ive ever seen any light up lol

u know where the clock is on the dash....i cut a round hole just below the clock to the right

and installed a boost gauge...it looks like a factory fitted item.

an a small led red light for when u hit the boost button.

it looks fly

SUPA-FLY? =-p

Nice work though!

Hey Chris, what was the bulb that came out? I haven't replaced mine (only one faulty) yet. When I had the bulbs out I was doing my headunit and didn't have spare bulbs on me at the time.

Could you read off the text off the old bulb or take a photo of it next to a 5c piece? Cheers!

hahaha, just took out the unit .. found the reason my lights have never worked.......

cos there wasn't any :lol: now im gonna have to wait for someone to find out what is the replacement bulb...

basically looks like a push and turn with 2 tabs opposite each other. but the terminals are on the flat surface that it clicks into..

i can take a pic if you still want it.

Nah, i've taken them out before (read my post above).

I just didn't pull the actual BULB out of the holder when I pulled the holders out. I don't want to dismantle the dash, then have to drive down to JayCar or whoever to get the bulbs with the dash apart. (I also CBF putting it back together just to make a trip to get bulbs, and have to pull it apart again) =-]

where can you actually get those bulbs from? actually...where can you get the holders from? Nissan charge heaps for it ($26 for the larger bulb with holder and $20 for the tiny one with holder so i was told). Right now, my whole climate control doesnt light up.

where can you actually get those bulbs from? actually...where can you get the holders from? Nissan charge heaps for it ($26 for the larger bulb with holder and $20 for the tiny one with holder so i was told). Right now, my whole climate control doesnt light up.

I bought them from Dick Smiths. They are called "grain of wheat or rice" from memory.

Have a close look at the holders and you will see that they are just that. They hold these small bulbs in place and make contact.

You will be able to see that the bulb wires are just wrapped around the holder. Just unwrap the old and wrap the new and snip off the excess.

Enjoy!

El Bee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...