Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From their site the maps look like this , though the turbine map should vary with different compressors at this site it does not .

So you have ~ 21.5 lbs of exhaust flow if it has the .86 a/r exhaust housing or ~ 18 lbs flow if it has the .64 a/r housing . The energy recovered by an efficient 54mm turbine has to try and muscle a 76mm TO4S dinosaur compressor wheel that has the capacity to pump 49 lbs of air in its .70 a/r TO4S cover . That cover by the way if used on a GT35R can pass 60+ lbs of airflow and approx 75 lbs on a TO4R/Z so way overkill for 49 lbs .

If you look at the compressor maps for the GT2860RS and GT2871R 48 trim they show 35 and 38 lbs of flow from a 60 and a 71mm compressor in a .60 a/r TO4B cover .

The point of all this is that more modern compressors are far smaller than the dinosaurs for adequate flow and the comp covers or housings are more compact as well . The GT28 turbine is a high speed device as are the GT series compressors , the fact that they work together at high rpms means they compliment each other . The TO4S compressor from the GT2540R or GT2876R as Garrett now calls it is way out of step technology wise with its GT28 turbine . It has reasonable airflow for its size and trim but pumps it volume because it is big rather than efficient - for its airflow . It doesn't need high revs to work but the GT28 turbine does so this is where they fight each other and the result is boost lag .

The Garrett site said - best suited to unique applications , not recommended for general performance applications .

I don't know where you go from here , your compressor wheel and cover are the problem so its a case of change them or change the turbo to get better response .

Probably not what you wanted to hear , why those turbos are on the market at all beats me .

Cheers A .

post-9594-1140219467.gif

post-9594-1140219507.gif

Edited by discopotato03

There's no need to upgrade your turbo, just come down an exhaust housing size to 0.64 & u will be far better off. As much as the GT25R doesnt look good on paper I have been impressed buy how it performs so far in the real world.

first thing i would try to find out is if:

A ) this characteristic is normal for this turbo, on this engine or

B ) its abnormal for this turbo/engine combo to get this sort of lag

i had a lag issue on my sr20det car that had a gt2530 turbo, i was spooling early on in the range, but would take 5K rpm to hit 1bar of boost.

after ALOT of fiddling around it was found that the wastegate arm didnt have enough tension on it, so when the pressure built up in the exhaust housing, it was opening the wastegate early and causing a sort of wastegate creep. unplugging the vacuum line from the wastegate didnt affect it because the pressure opening the wastegate flap was in the exhaust housing itself, not from the vacuum feeds positive pressure.

so in saying all that, check that the wastegate arm has tension on it, if its an adjustable arm, give it around 1-1.5cm of tension. disconnect the vacuum line from the wastegate, and give it a run. if boost response is better, then you are in category B, same as me, which is easy fix. if not then follow the advise given on this thread, specially get your tune checked out !

after i fixed this issue on mine i started spooling earlier and hitting 1bar at 3.3k rpm WITHOUT a tune :D

Edited by mokompri
  • 2 weeks later...
LOL....Ok :)

But i never even get near 5,500rpm in day to day driving. so i suppose when i hear bottom end i think the rpm you are pulling in traffic ;)

When you are up the thing, who really cars what your bottom end is like, its only in day to day hustle and bustle when i need to shift back to 2nd at 45km/h to get past a car i curse the RB20 :/

Looks like you have just taught yourself a lesson about the benifits of a rb30det. My 3 litre can overtake cars at 45km'h in 4th or 5th gear off boost.

I use to work at Hinterland toyota, so I got to drive the Sportivo corolla's and the celica's with the VVTL-i, so I know what you mean.. But this is alot worse than waiting for the valve lift just to kick in... i'm talking absolutely gutless off boost... I honestly think if I raced a sportivo corolla and started off boost, it could take me out :|

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...