Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys where can i find a single turbo manifold to suit a rb26 gt 30/40 flange [t3] prefer steam pipe must be top quality i have looked on the forums but cant find anything promising im in tas bye the way so its hard to find anything for anything if u know what i mean thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106138-rb26-single-turbo-manifold-where/
Share on other sites

WTF? lol

www.calaisturbo.com.au

or if you wanna get technical

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/

works every day of the week for me :lol:

Stainless doesnt flex "too much".

Another ill informed post i see s13rb26.

WTF?  lol

www.calaisturbo.com.au

or if you wanna get technical

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/

works every day of the week for me  :lol:

Stainless doesnt flex "too much".

Another ill informed post i see s13rb26.

stainless does flex

go google

or ask any metal fabricator.

yes it flex's.

but it does not

flexi's too much

The main reason for warping of the manifolds, expecially high mounts in stainless is because people dont support the weight of exhaust system, and poor manifold design without re-inforcement

I wonder if google will tell you that :P

:P

stainless does flex

go google

or ask any metal fabricator.

Stainless happens to have a greater rate of thermal expansion then mild steel. Thats part of the reason when you are welding it, if you dont know what you are doing, or dont approach it in a sensible manner it pulls all over the place.

I wouldnt even consider making a manifold out of 4mm pipe. It would weigh way too much. There is no reason why you need 4mm in wall thickness...there is jack all pressure, its purely a heat thing., and the mechanical loads on the manifold when glowing red hot.

So going crazy with wall thickness is a poor way to get a strong rigid manifold. Makes much more sense to gusset the manifolod and support the turbo.. Make sure your front pipe isnt hanging lose, and is supported off the gearbox.

Another problem with going 4mm wall thickness is the difficulty of getting the internal weld bead/penetration on the money. It can be done, but at 4mm you will have to do a root run then another pass etc. Anbd when doing complicate dcollector welds with such a wall thickness its goign to be difficult to get the fit right...so need to make up voids with weld metal, which promotes an inconsistant ID surface which needs cleaning up with a burr etc etc

About 2.4mm is about as heavy a wall as i would consider.

That all said a 4mm thk manifold will probably work great but its a bit overkill...and another thing to consider is that when talking pipe, the thicker the wall thickness the smaller the ID as the OD is fixed. So say 4mm wt pipe will have a smaller internal diameter then 2mm wall thickness...may not be a problem but another thing to consider.

yes it flex's.

but it does not

flexi's too much

The main reason for warping of the manifolds, expecially high mounts in stainless is because people dont support the weight of exhaust system, and poor manifold design without re-inforcement

I wonder if google will tell you that :P

:P

If you copy the way the F1 lads did it in the turbo era, with a proper, rose jointed support to take the weight of the turbo off the manifold, and still allow movement from expansion and contraction, it should help

post-12883-1140124666.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...