Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow rb enthusiasts,

I just purchased my very first skyline... a 1994 r32 GTR...

skyline.jpg

She's currently sporting Hasemi Wheels (no idea what version), Hasemi bucket seat, HKS turbo timer, HKS boost controller, 5zigen catback, S.S. downpipe, earl's s.s. braided brake lines, unknown aftermarket steering wheel... maybe a few other goodies that I haven't discovered yet...

Oh yeah by the way... I live in the US....

I'm looking for a new catback... must be fully stainless steel or titanium.... I was wondering what you guys recommended as far as quality goes... I've been looking at Apexi GT spec (the huge catback).....

I was also curious where i could find some Vspec brembo brakes for the front and back...

Also looking into replacing the catalytic converter with a 3" test pipe... curious to know if the factory O2 sensor would be affected if it was fitted into a test pipe

Basically any other words of wisdom you can offer and where to begin upgrading the car.... this is going to be a Street car with occasional track usage... I've searched and I'm still searching as we speak... I'd just like to introduce myself and my car and say it's a pleasure to join you guys and I'll be driving a skyline for the rest of my life!

CHeers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106285-my-first-skyline-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Guest Mashrock

Niice one andrew

i saw a 34gtr last time i was in cali. but never seen another gtr while i was there at all!

do u have to get that converted to left hand drive at all? or is this car not to be street regestered??

so your after a driveable gtr which will smash almost everything at the track??

the n1 turbos off the 34gtr are usually a good upgrade, from what has been said on here there are two different types.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=105432&st=0 that thread should give you some insight on that front.

as for the rest of it. whats your budget like? what do you want to throw at this car?

do you want to open the engine up for pistons etc etc?

very very nice mate. also have GTR in aus. i understand u gotta kill a man to get a GTR in the US.. congrats.. blwo the socks off them chevs and mustangs.

just wondering.. what ECU should i use on my RB26DETT i want to deal away with AFM's an d run a single turbo.? any ideas?

Hi Andrew

The O2 sensors are actually fitted to the dump pipes and the sensor attached near the catalytic converter is actually an exhaust temp sensor. It doesn't seem to be terribly useful though as it only indicates "HOT" (indicated by red dash light like the e-brake) or "OK" (no light).

A lot of guys cut it off or a little tidier way would be to just tuck it into the chassis rail and tape it in. Alternatively, you could tap a thread into your test pipe and refit the sensor?

:unsure:

Guest Mashrock
very very nice mate. also have GTR in aus. i understand u gotta kill a man to get a GTR in the US.. congrats.. blwo the socks off them chevs and mustangs.

just wondering.. what ECU should i use on my RB26DETT i want to deal away with AFM's an d run a single turbo.? any ideas?

the power fc d-jetro? i think its spelt. that runs without afm,

or hks fcon but not many people here to tune that.

other locally ones i would guess autronic etc etc. but i dont know anything about them

Very nice car mate!!

if i can give some advice dont go near a track day unless you have a modified sump or some sort of upgrade to lubrication system, especially if you are on semi slicks or modifed power.

it will only end in a dead engine if you do.

cheers Russ

any more pics hehe

yes power FC de jetro. u have to run an extra map sensor off cyl 3-4

ive found one with sensor for $1400 but problem is not many shops in aust tune it well.. its a big ask. looking at 2000 tunned and running.

R32s have bad oil management!.. its sad.. a sump baffle will fix it.. an oil cooler with remote filter will help fix it to. have more oil 7.5L upwards and ur winning the war against ur golden syrup slopping around.

  • 1 month later...
just wondering zinkrb250 do many people in the states knw wat ur godzilla is? hope the cops dont.

think bout punching ur cat out.. im going to.

wher did ur bonnet grill go? and u get a Vspec..? (vspec frnt bar)

Nahh not a lot of people know what it is... the tuner people know... but not the ordinary joes ... all they see is me on the wrong side of the car and have to look twice to make sure that's what they saw.. I've passed plenty of cops so far and no problems with them yet...

Right now i'm looking into getting a 3.5 or 4" catback and hopefully find a test pipe that is bigger than 3"

I've got the bonnet grill... it just wasn't in place when the pictures were taken...

And about the vspec i'm pretty sure it is not a vspec....reason being is because it doesn't have the brembo brakes

So far i've found the car has a little lip on the hood (just above the bonnet grill)... a boot lip on the trunk... no emblems except for GTR on the back and the GT on the fenders... it's got an oil cooler (which i don't think came factory)... earl's stainless steel brake lines, some unknown brand of stainless steel front pipes, an unknown 5zigen catback, an unknown aftermarket steering wheel, hasemi bucket seat, it had hasemi wheels until i swapped those for my 17x9 5zigen fno1rc (bronze), it's got an HKS panel filter, a blitz boost gauge, hks turbo timer, hks boost controller, apexi n1 coilovers, nismo A arms i think... i don't know i was under it and found a bracket that said nismo located on both of the front wheel wells, it had nismo spark plugs until i changed them out cause it was stuttering at higher boost levels... so far that's all i can think of off of the top of my head

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...