Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and gurls .. i need new rear speakers for r33 series one.. im pretty sure they fit 6inch ??? correct me if im wrong.. i need to get new speakers... but im after sumthing good that will sound as loud as 6x9's ..

Anyone know any models and brands??

wait...

the stock rear speakers are 6ich?

why do i have 6x9s in mine? i HATE 6x9's... they sound so shit in comparison to a 6inch...

i never really looked, plus they have covers over them... im gunna check that out...

PS: i only hate 6x9's cause i normally run a lot of bass, so i dont need any more...

yeh any 6 to 6.5 inch speaker will fit.

being loud will come down to a few things such as what you run the speakers off how much power (wrms not just watts) and the sensitivity.

eg head unit will be about 16wrms depending on brand etc etc. if you run them off an amp that is 100wrms the amp will not distort at the same level as the head unit.

sensitivity has a part as well if your speakers have a sensitivity: 89dB/Wm a speaker that has a sensitivity 91db/Wm needs less power to produce the same sound as that with 89db/Wm.

i hope this helps mr 32

NOT JBL 6.5"!! I finally got around to putting my old amp in the car, and these new 6.5" speakers are terrible!

I'm going to pull them out and put Jaycar's kevlar 6.5" woofers in there, then run them off the amps crossover. Hopefully I won't need to put my sub in the boot!

i forgot the model number but i got fusion 6.5"ers (3 way) and i had kenwood kfc somethin 6x9's and the fusions crap all over for sound quality, loudness everything, i wish i could put them in my front doors but they are a bit too deep and i dont wanna resort to pods in the doors

ben...

I just replaced mine... you'll be looking for 6.5" speakers in the rears, and you'll be looking for 6" in the fronts.

I had to make a custom bracket for my rears 'cos I had 6" Polk's for my rears, and they were a little too small to fit in the stock plastic bracket... and I had to cut the front mounting brackets to fit the fronts!

Sound SO much better now. The stocks were 8w Clarion speakers, with NO surrounds. They'd eroded completely.

Yet to put my sub back in... gotta make myself a custom boot floor before I can do that though.

Hi Ya

If you are still looking to buy speakers for your R33. I have 2 pairs of near new Alpine 6 1/2 in Coaxial 2-way speakers 90watts Peak Output.

They cost me $299 a pair and I thought a fair price would be $150 per pair if you are interested.

I had them installed in a R33 GTR for about 3 months and this was the biggest I could install in the back.

If you are interested I can be contacted on 0407 883 263.

Regards

Duane

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...