Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the idea of the holes is

to allow some air to bypass the compressor inlet/snout and enter directly into the compressor housing ?

As you can see from the picture of my turbo below, the holes (some turbos have slots) allow the air to enter further out on the compressor blades. This is an attempt to avoid the compressor surge problem that occurs when you have a large turbo on an engine that won't take the airflow at mid to low rpm's.

:) Cheers :P

without

i think it comes on about 3300 with nos and full at 4300 or so

when i get the ecu back

ill post two dyno sheets

one without nos and one with to compare

i have just finished reading this thread, and oh my, how fun it was... everyone seems to be in the same rb25 frame of mind, where it can only push 300 odd rwkws max.. kudos to you mate, your doing exactly what id be doing if i had a dyno on hand 24/7.... see you at the track.

i have just finished reading this thread, and oh my, how fun it was... everyone seems to be in the same rb25 frame of mind, where it can only push 300 odd rwkws max.. kudos to you mate, your doing exactly what id be doing if i had a dyno on hand 24/7.... see you at the track.

thanks mate

and ill see you there in 2 months

i have just finished reading this thread, and oh my, how fun it was... everyone seems to be in the same rb25 frame of mind, where it can only push 300 odd rwkws max.. kudos to you mate, your doing exactly what id be doing if i had a dyno on hand 24/7.... see you at the track.

Was the motor that you just blew up stock?

  • 2 weeks later...

Just got my 2 speed box ordered

and stall converter

should be in next week

will post new dyno graph

and be going to the track to see how much quicker it will go

Video clips havent been uploaded but will be soon when i got time

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Rotary20B
Hello

I am new to this forum site.I would like to know what is the highest HP at the Rear Wheels produced by an Rb25 motor.

I currently have a GTST skyline and with the standard Rb25 motor and pumping out 498 Hp on 18 PSI.It is a manual skyline.I am running a Standard Motor,GT3540 turbo,Custom plenium,750cc Injectors,Hydra Computer,125 mm thick cooler with HKS style end tanks,3 " intercooler pipes, 3 "exhaust,Aftermarket coil packs.The engine has been run on the dyno about 150 times checking things and testing as i am trying to prove what the standard rb25 motor is capable of.

I am wanting to see who has made more hp.A dyno sheet is available and the dyno is on my own Dyno Dynamics Dyno running shootout mode.Intake Temps on the dyno sheet are 34 degrees and the room temp is 30 degrees.

Thanks

PS this is on Opitimax fuel.

I remember a customer of MazFix's did a comparison on shootout modes on the Dyno Dynamics dynos and it ads 25% more power over normal mode which would equal 373.5 hp on normal mode.

I remember a customer of MazFix's did a comparison on shootout modes on the Dyno Dynamics dynos and it ads 25% more power over normal mode which would equal 373.5 hp on normal mode.

Interesting

but if you read off the dyno dynamics site

it states that it locks all variables in place not allowing them to be changed

the only way you get more hp out of shootout mode is putting your exhaust sensor near the Extractor manifold.Which is picked up then on the CORRECTIONS part of the dyno sheet.As well as tempertures of the day,Barametric pressure and Humidity.

If the dyno doesnt have shootout mode the variables such as ramp rates can be changed to suit different vehicles.

So i can say that your quote is wrong

373.5 hp doesnt = 130MPH

Yep Engine just got dynod

Made a total of 1231 HP

i was buying this for my Full chassis car but chose to use it in my STREET car

Don't kid yourself fool, you have no Full chasis car and your STREET car isn't registered or even driven to the strip and runs no exhaust, stop kidding yourself we're not idiots

Your lies don't impress anyone they just make you look like a DONKEY

Edited by Shibby
Don't kid yourself fool, you have no Full chasis car and your STREET car isn't registered or even driven to the strip and runs no exhaust, stop kidding yourself we're not idiots

Your lies don't impress anyone they just make you look like a DONKEY

and your STREET car isn't registered or even driven to the strip and runs no exhaust, stop kidding yourself we're not idiots

what makes you think its not rego`d

reason why it isnt drivin to the strip is that im from wollongong and if i break something it wil cost to much to get it back

As for the exhaust its dumped at the diff

and what makes you think i dont have a full chassis car im building

Edited by MR331307
Because your a DONKEY, its like your FULLY built spare RB25 that you post about but now your selling the stocker you post you can build it

Pretty easy to do a search and realise you don't remember your own lies from post to post

ive got the parts sitting there all ready

if you got such a big mouth and think you know everything come down to my shop and come check it out for yourself

or when i come back to the track

no need for silly remarks when you dont know me from a bar of soap

you might read this and that but i can assure you im using the standard motor and my other motor is ready for building machined and ready.

as for the race motor i have got it purchased and am awaiting arrival from it

it was assembled and dyno`d from another shop overseas

so many people on this forum can talk so much bad stuff about someone its not funny

to the people who have supported this thread thank you

to people who talk bad about the car and dont believe it

like i have stated the car is 80 % of the time at Wild 1 motorsport

go and view it

everyone is more then welcome

Edited by MR331307
ahhahahahhaahhahahahaha

yes i better anounce this

i borrowed my mates plates SCRMER

my plates are LNEMUP

im building his car

it has a Trust t88

Forged pistons,rods,crank,jun pump,Larger oil sump,GTR head,LARGE CAMS,custom cooler,Hydra ECU,1000cc injectors.

will be ready in 2 weeks

As for the rego why else would you need to borrow your mates plates? did you forget you posted that :):)

what your saying WAS true

but i was waiting on my engineers report before i could get the new Blue slip,Its rego`d now

all i gotta say is

later man

Before i go

shibby what car do you drive

Edited by MR331307
I ride a donkey

just asking

mate no need for silly remarks

See i wish to sponser or advertise on SAU

but people like you make me change my mind and lose interest

sometimes i think is it worth it to contribute and talk on these forums

they are well respected and alot of people use them for the right reasons i started off on the wrong foot but have learned to hold remarks in

Edited by MR331307
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...