Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've installed and tuned an emanage on my old rb20 and my current rb25. There's nothing wrong with them. If you are comparing to other piggy backs then the $100 premium for an emanage over an safc is easily justified.

Also consider auto owners who cant use a pfc (unless piggy backed, oh the irony), CA and RB20 owners who will have a 900 dollar extra cost to go from an safc/emanage to a pfc and it's not such a bad thing.

The pfc is better. You will get no arguement from me. I run one now. I would never go back to an emanage as i found it's limits and what i consider to be it's biggest flaw, which is no correction for injector lag. Change to a sard injector on an rb25 with an emanage and you just can't make it work correctly. That was my motivation to upgrade, and considering an rb25 pfc is more reasonably priced than the rb20 one i originally looked at, i thought it was an acceptable price to pay for the added benefit of a full stand alone ecu.

But prior to the injector swap it was quite happy to let me run a z32 afm, i could get fairly flat 12 afr's on wide open throttle and it wasn't a pig to drive. I probably wouldn't have swapped it if i didn't run into the injector issue.

Shit canning the emanage doesn't help anyone. Pointing out where it fails so people can make an educated decision about which way to go is a different thing.

amen. i also found the powerfc much better during gear changes, it felt heaps smoother. but thats probably due to the extra ign timing and tune more than ecu change itself.

heaps better than what mate?

you havn't been able to justify your reasons for sh1t canning the emanage, how are you able to compare if you haven't used both of them?

you are just going on assumptions! don't be fooled into thinking an emanage is less programmable than a full replacement ecu, compared with a powerfc you can do pretty much all the same stuff.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

emange gets a bum wrap around here for nothing.

sure it isnt no power fc, but for alot of ppl who arent going all out and dont intend on ever doing so it is perfectly fine for them.

and is much cheaper than a pfc, especially for rb20 ppl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...