Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Being a hardcore circuit fan.....I never thought id say this....but im addicted to drag racing now.

WSID only being 10min from my house it was bound to happen....

Anyways I have a question for the hardcore drag racers out there.......got a few issues with traction...whats happening ? any solution besides changing rubber ?

Ill start from the top...

Was there are few weeks before for the first time ever (yes popped my drag racing cherry...) and managed a 13.9 running stock boost. Misfiring issues stopped me from running higher boost levels.

Even though I was able to run high boost (still only 0.9bar running stock turbo).. best I got was a 14.4. I have a feeling my rims may be a factor in this.

Last time I had the impuls which were 9.5 inch wide and now I have the Works which are 9inch wide. But still using the same 275 rubber....maybe sidewalls are flexing too much ??? dont know. but thats the only change to the car that I can think of thats causing traction issues. No traction what so ever no matter how much I ride the clutch.

Any ideas on how I can fix this without having to change to 265 or smaller tyres ?

As for mods...just the basic mods for now.

fmic

Power fc

Blitz ID3

turbo back exhaust

stock suspension.

Heaps more done to the car...but these are the only "power" making mods.

Managed to get 220rwkw during the last tune...admittedly this is a bit of a happy dyno. But still should be running over 200rwkw....so mid 13s should be doable right ? yes ? no ?

PS

Still gonna build my car for circuit when I change the suspension and turbo etc :lol:

Edited by shonen
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107076-ok-im-officially-addicted/
Share on other sites

Dude, you want sidewall flex for drag. It increases your effective contact patch. Check out the serious drag cars next time you're out - the rear tyres always look like they're about to fall off because they run so little pressure.

On corollary, run your front tyres with as much pressure as you can. It'll decrease the contact patch which will reduce your rolling resistance. It will also reduce flex so your weight doesn't shift off the rear tyres as much when you change gear.

Are you dropping a big burnout to warm your tyres up before the launch? That can help a lot. I've also seen some people drive around the watered patch in the staging area too.

hahah dude im a beginner at drags.....but I thought sidewall flex was only good or deemd necessary from full drag slicks ?

like the Micky Ts etc.....

Anyways for one reason or another I have a feeling that the narrower rims I got at the back now is contributing to the traction issues and hence bad times....not using it as an excuse, but the car really does feel "different" out on the strip. In regards to the burnout, I do small ones but dont sit on the spot lighting them up.....275 in 18s can get quite expensive...so dont want to wear them out TOO fast.

Edited by shonen

Tom are you sure they're the only mods you have :) Your car looks to have a lot more goodies than that ~ Also, stock suspension? Do you have different springs because your car is definitely not at the stock ride height...

220rwkw + using those modifications only seems a little unrealistic (0.9bar being 13.23psi) but you've already mentioned a happy dyno.

Maybe look at SydneyKid's R34GTT suspension package, I read the thread and with that setup you can shave your times down :) He proves how vital suspension really is.

Good luck mate!

S

i ran a 14.0 without using the gears on my auto on 205 rubber on 10-12psi.

its more than likley your start offs that will get you. my first run EVER i ran 2secs slower than i am now. i ran a 16.4, my second run i ran a 15.6 and the last time i went i ran a 14.0.

its always how it is when starting out, just keep going a few times and get opinions from people that have seen you run. its usually the starts that cause slow times.

Tom are you sure they're the only mods you have :) Your car looks to have a lot more goodies than that ~ Also, stock suspension? Do you have different springs because your car is definitely not at the stock ride height...

220rwkw + using those modifications only seems a little unrealistic (0.9bar being 13.23psi) but you've already mentioned a happy dyno.

Maybe look at SydneyKid's R34GTT suspension package, I read the thread and with that setup you can shave your times down :D He proves how vital suspension really is.

Good luck mate!

S

hahaha stan...as mentioned before they are the only POWER making mods....

and yeah the springs are factory option "nissan sport" springs......

yes happy dyno...but still should be over 200rwkw.....its a manual afterall :D hahahha jk

Meh, manual-spaniel..... only a few more hours till I see the effects of my new setup :D I'll cap it at 240rwkw for now... don't want to fry my gearbox :D

Hope to hell it ain't a happy dyno too... otherwise I'll look like a fool when I put it on the dyno at UAS on the 11th :)

What are your 60ft times?

What pressure do you have in the rear tyres?

What RPM are you launching at?

Are you slipping or side-stepping the clutch?

tyre pressure is around 22psi on the rears and launching around 3krpm and slipping the clutch to ease it off the line and 60ft is a shit 2.1 sec

get a set of stock rims.

or even R33 rims with 225's.

I'd say this would get you a better overall time than the 18's.

try different launch styles.

try 500rpm higher or lower each time to find perfect spot for you.

try slipping the clutch a little till it gets moving then jumping off it.

try jumping straight off the clutch.

it's just practice.

on my s14 with 175rwkw and heavy 17x9's with 255's at 22psi air in them, best I managed was a 13.8 with 1.9 60"

stock clutch and stock turbo.

I was due to go back with 300zx wheels with 225's on them but never got that far.

I hope that helps some

Edited by GTST

I don't think you have 200rwkw if your getting 2.1sec 60ft times and only running 13.9 ET...

as an example I ran 13.7 ET with a 60ft of 2.4 and I have about 200rwkw with similar mods to yours...

leads me to my next question what was your MPH?... as I reckon 2.1 ain't that bad with street tyres and should be good for low 13s ET

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...