Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello readers,

i own a r32 gtr. I need to replace my castor rods due to wear.

I have the option to replace them with standard

OR

replace them with aftermarket ones - adjustable.

I drive to work in my gtr, i don't drift (im under the assumption that adjustable castor rods are for drifting). I use my car to make an appearance, i like simple smooth driving.

What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare?

2. Will it be rough on the roads?

3. What is the downside to adjustables?

Some feedback on this would be great.

Thanks.

What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare? No.

2. Will it be rough on the roads? No - you won't even notice them.

3. What is the downside to adjustables? They cost money and the rose joints can suffer from wear.

Some feedback on this would be great.

If you just want them for bling quotient probably best not to bother as no one other than the bloke who does the wheel alignment will ever notice them.

Thanks.

well the downsides if you use the adjustable rods with rose joints are:

1. they will be a little harsher as there is no longer a rubber bush

2. they will need to be checked periodically to make sure the adjustment part hasnt slipped/worked loose

3. they will eventually wear out (much faster than a bush).

4. if you wind in a lot of caster the steering will be heavier.

5. they cost more than getting (second hand) standard replacements

6. they are illegal on a road registered car.

They do have advantages though:

1. sharper turn in

2. steering wheel self centres much more quickly/aggressively

3. you can adjust the caster to however you like it.

If you are happy with the handling now then i would just replace them with stockies. If you would like some more adjustment, then go for the adjustables.

BTW, if you do need a set of stock rods i have a pair in my garage that i would gladly exchange for some cash.

Hello readers,

i own a r32 gtr. I need to replace my castor rods due to wear.

I have the option to replace them with standard

OR

replace them with aftermarket ones - adjustable.

I drive to work in my gtr, i don't drift (im under the assumption that adjustable castor rods are for drifting). I use my car to make an appearance, i like simple smooth driving.

What i need to know,

1. Will adjustable castor rods make my driving to work a nightmare?

2. Will it be rough on the roads?

3. What is the downside to adjustables?

Some feedback on this would be great.

Thanks.

Hi, firstly caster (radius) rods don't usually wear, the bushes (at the front) wear but not the radius rods themselves. My suggestion would be to replace the worn out, standard, rubber, radius rod bushes with nw, adjustable, polyurethane bushes. For around $100, plus a bit of pressing anda a whel alignment, they are a legal way of achieving caster adjustment.

:biggrin: cheers :biggrin:

Edited by Sydneykid

Thanks dudes. I appreciate your help on this matter. I'm more swinging to just replacing the castor rods bushes with the neo-prene ones at Fulcrum. I suppose with all that wear and troubles there are for adjustables, it would be un-economical.

Thanks again champs.

I actually went to inquire about the same problem and was told no point gettin the adjustable rods.. But the adjustable bushes with a minor mod, where it adjusts it self, when you turn the wheel..

all up plus wheel alignment-$300... is that expensive or gd price?

Some time ago now I installed polyurethane castor rod bushes from Pedders for ~$260 installed. These were offset to increase castor 1.5 degrees either side.

I then replaced the bushes with adjustable rods, so I could dial in more castor and have it infinitely adjustable, should the car bump any gutters etc. These cost $250 in a group buy from UAS and if anything were more comfortable than the poly bushes. This is one of the best handling mods I have done.

With a 0.75 deg increase in castor, can you really notice the difference?

Whilteline only quote 0.75 degree increase with their bushes.. seems almost nothing??

That's compared to the static reading from new and a conservative one at that. Most cars have distorted standard bushes and have lost some caster over time. I have seen a 1.5 degree increase in caster many times.

Then there is the dynamic caster, the polyurethane bushes distort a lot less when the car is on the move than the silicone filled standard rubber bushes.

Bottom line, the difference is very noticeable.

:biggrin: cheers :biggrin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...