Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, I can get all sorts of Jap parts dirt cheap.

When I read about how much people pay for parts, I laugh and cringe at the same time!

Hey, drift limo, what did you mean by this:

"All you need is to find a cheap metal fab place and get them to chop the inlet off and weld it on the other side..."

Do you mean i have to make a new ic pipe for the inlet side, as thats what I'm looking to have done.

Don't want to cut into the endtanks or anything!

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah, I can get all sorts of Jap parts dirt cheap.

When I read about how much people pay for parts, I laugh and cringe at the same time!

If you can get them dirt cheap, then why not use them...you get what you pay for. If your only keeping your car short term then do the things that give you the best results, exhaust from cat back and a filter. Leave it at that...and save your money.

...yeh, thanks, it snice ot know im a sucker because i enjoy my car :starwars:

...LOL, sell your R32 now then. If your not part of the brotherhood/suckers then :)

Your either with us or against us...as for your schmansy Evos/rotors etc, sure you could use an neon battery operated elctric toothbrush... but real men chew on the bones of bulls they have slayed with their own hands...you will find us behind the wheel of our GTSTs, and real R32 owners/lovers never sell them, we get buried in them or crash them in fiery infernos :)

LOL, in case your not cringing, if i add it up over 5 years of ownership, im guessing im staring at about 30-40k on my car, thats maintenance and mods :biggrin:

R34 side mount...seriously, if your thinking short term with the car, i wouldnt nother with anything other then exhaust and filter..., what bar does your car have, perhaps look at a Supra SMIC then it could be worthwhile given the fact that you get little airflow through that part of the car

What planet did you come from?! :starwars:

What planet did you come from?! :)

no idea, but im loving these new smilies, just need to rant a little so that i can use then :)

From what i have read the R34 GTT cooler takes a little bit of tweaking to fit, so why not use a thicker core like that from a Supra :confused: Probably cheaper to boot, and provided with a bit of ducting may get a reasonable result as little MR2 have to make do with similar setups :starwars:

  • 1 month later...

I have used an R34GTT SMIC on an R32GTST and it made 205 rwkw, no problems, all day, everyday. It's an easy and cheap mod and I was very happy with double the standard power. TargaTas did the same and he achieved ~220 rwkw (his engine was fresh).

We get very glib on SAU about 200 rwkw not being enough, and you not trying if you don't have at least 400 rwkw. Well 200 rwkw is plenty enough for lots of people and it makes an R32GTST pretty damn fast. So I have this opinion that if the guy wants 200 rwkw then we should help him how to get there for the least cost. Not tell him he should be aiming for 300 rwkw.

So to answer the question on how ottfit an R34GTT intercooler to an R32GTST, you have two choices;

1. Modify the intercooler pipework in the engine bay (as per page 1 of this thread) so that it fits up to the R34GTT intercooler rear outlet.

2. Cut off (from the rear) and reweld (onto the front) the pipework on the R34GTT intercooler outlet tank. All I did was take my R32GTST intercooler and the R34GTT intercooler along to my local aluminium welder (in the yellow pages). I told him I want this (the R34GTT intercooler) to have the outlet on the rear just like this (the R32GTST intercooler). Cost me $50 and he did it while I waited.

Hope that was of some help

:( cheers :(

Gary.

I'm interested to know what sort of intake temps were had using the r34 cooler on a rb20 making 200rwkw all day, every day.

to me that says it worked well at 200rwkw being used on a circuit where you are on boost and using those 200rwkw frequently.

I assume this was on your r32 back when it had the rb20 in it, and I recal you had a fair few temp readings for it like before turbo, after turbo and after intercooler..

Johnny Cash,

if you are planning on staying with the stock turbo and running only a couple of extra psi boost, I'd forget upgrading to a 34 SMIC and just put a water spray on it. They make a huge difference (have one on my rex) and for my money are better BFYB over a 34 SMIC upgrade...

my 2c..

cheers

Brett

Gary.

I'm interested to know what sort of intake temps were had using the r34 cooler on a rb20 making 200rwkw all day, every day.

to me that says it worked well at 200rwkw being used on a circuit where you are on boost and using those 200rwkw frequently.

I assume this was on your r32 back when it had the rb20 in it, and I recal you had a fair few temp readings for it like before turbo, after turbo and after intercooler..

Yep, I have the actual numbers somewhere. The R34GTT intercooler was around 68% efficient for cooling at ~200 rwkw. That compares pretty favourably with a standard R32GTR intercooler on the same engine which was 72% efficient at similar power levels. At 200 rwkw and 7,250 rpm, the R34GTT intercooler (and pipework) had 1.5 psi restriction at 1.3 bar. The R32GTR intercooler, with larger pipework and similar power, was 0.75 psi. So even the airflow wasn't too bad.

That's why I am using an R34GTT SMIC on the Stagea, I know it won't have any problems with 200 4wkw.

:) cheers :(

and for any one interested ...the r34 gtt side mount is a straight swap into a rb20det cefiro .....

its involves a tiny bit of cutting ......(like 20mm out of the corner of the stock bumper and removing some of the splash guard) Basically you use the stock mount positions and brackets and everything lines up fine.

And definately a noticable difference in power which i sorted wasnt expecting. Mods - Stock exhaust with panel filter and 11-12 psi boost.

Edited by Resin

They are fine intercoolers, but are intended for 7psi on a stock rb25 turbo no more... remember nissan produced intercoolers on the gtst/gtt's to be able to deal with the heat/pressure produced from factory. I in no means want to argue with Sydneykid as he knows his stuff very well but for the price of a fmic and the safety it brings with it i wouldnt consider messing around with a side mount.

I think you'll notice after a few taps on the accelerator the small little smic will get quiet heat soaked on 12psi on a normal day!

Gary is that after its been running for awhile on the dyno... or after you've given it stick say 4-5 times in a row? As thats when i would of thought the smaller GT-T cooler would suffer heatsoak?

Edited by jazza08

I think having a FMIC would be more of a safety concern than having an upgraded SMIC. Look at all those idiots out there cutting up their front bumpers, supports etc... that has to be detrimental for safety.

When I get around to it i'll definately be putting an r34 gtt cooler on my r32 gtst, it just makes sense, especially if ur not chasing 250kW (which is a lot of money more than 180-200kW.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...