Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Gonna try to track down some R-compound tyres for the next hillclimb and future trackdays... was just wondering if anyone had any feedback about good/bad places to buy them from in Brisbane?

At this point (after searching) it's coming down to the Dunlop D01J or DZ02G, or Bridgestone RE55, or maybe some Yokos. I know you can pick up the Dunlops from Qld Raceway but just wanted to hear people's experiences etc.

The sizes I'm after are front: 235/45R17 and rear: 255/40R17 (or maybe 265/40).

Also I have no idea what compound to go for - the tyres will be doing the Mt Cotton hillclimb and trackdays at QR only (5 lap stints), I don't plan to use them on the street except to drive there and back.

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107421-buying-semi-slick-tyres-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

I've bought D02G's from Qld Raceway before - no problems at all. Previously ran the Bridgestone RE55's which I think (in my opinion only) may be a slightly superior. Bridgestones you can buy from Tyretech.

If you wanted a tyre specifically for hillclimbs, I would look at the Toyo Proxes (R compound) available at plenty of places (bought mine at Keith 4 wheels) Extraordinarily good in short sprint events. At QR, they start to go off by about lap 3 or 4 and become too "squidgy" but would be superb for hillclimbs.

Edited by maccattack

I got Dunlop DO1J on my street car, they're dot rated and I have been quizz in the past by the officers of the law, just point it out to them, that's all. I think D01j comes in 3 compounds soft/super soft/ chewing gum. just get the soft/or medium, as the chewing gum one only last about 1500-2000k on the street and alot less on the track. Very nice tyres , with plenty of grip/warning.

Cost to KMs, and wet weather would be two of the big ones.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Id debat the thing with the wet weather. I guess it would depend on the tread patter to some extent. Some cars I have been in with them on, bit of rain, bloody hell, never again.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Can I ask how muck "cheap as" is?

They were 18" right ???

No sorry 17's cause mine is a 32GTR-one key to light weight is going 17in -less unsprung weight unless youve got super lightweight 18in rims(then there can be strength issues)

$1300 fitted and balanced-He even lowered my coil overs to suit for nothing-best people to deal with.

Others in Bris were quoting over $1400 without fitting

Edited by overev1

the Azenis RT215 really isn't an R compound tyre. far too hard and lacks the outright grip of a true R compound. Better than a normal street tyre though and probably not a bad choice if you only have one set of rims, because they'll last alot longer than a proper R tyre on the street.

I've used the Azenis RT215, a Hankook Z2000 race tyre, Yoko A032R, and Bridgestone RE55S. The Azenis are about 1.5 to 2 sec slower at Mt Cotton than the proper R tyres.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road.

That is actually incorrect. The compound keeps you stuck to the road in the dry...the only thing the grooves are designed for is wet weather traction.

That is why drag tyres have no grooves, they don't race in the wet.

Probably it would be right to say that the grooves pump the water out in the wet so the tyre can make contact with the road. The compound is softer on R-Compound tyres so they do stick better in the wet. That's why wet weather tyres perrish in racing when the track drys out.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

I second this, just bought a full set from Craig, top bloke & good prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...