Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry guys, $80 is a bit cheap given the tyres, while not performance branded, are new. These wheels with rubber tend to be going for around my asking price give or take $50, hence the ONO. $160 for the set while a steal for you guys is not the greatest value for me ;)

Having said that.. if people have things of interest then I'm willing to do swaps. I'm after a a catback exhaust, strut brace, GTR rear pods, Front Lip extension and a few other bits and pieces.

Cheers

Heh,

Yeah pass thanks, just easier If I can sell the whole set.

Though if the guys here that want sets of two want to negotiate a better price then I could be rid of them quite easily.

Well, I asked $350 ONO, so a set would be $175 but I'll factor in the ONO to be generous as I'd like to just get rid of them and say $140 a pair. That's $70 a wheel for the rim and the tyre which is 95% new. Also happy to provide detailed pictures for anyone as no-one as asked and it's a good idea to know what you're getting rim condition wise etc, as I've nothing to hide =)

Actually I might just take pics anyway...

Cheers

Here's some pics to show the defects in the wheels and show the tread patterm.

These are as bad as the defects get, very minor obviously, each pic is of a different rim so no rim is spotless. Not trying to turn people off, just trying to make sure people know what they're getting =)

post-23873-1141534165.jpgpost-23873-1141534228.jpgpost-23873-1141534254.jpgpost-23873-1141534307.jpgpost-23873-1141534353.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...