Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Can anyone recommend a trusted performance work shop that does pre-purchase inspections on japanese performance cars?

Possibbly in SE melbourne area.

Thanks

Good question. I got RACV to do the full test on Line im looking at... the works with hosting the car up etc. *Fingers crossed*

Im actually going to look at a car this week aswell and i was thnkin the exact same thing... where can i get a full inspection of the car done??????

I got RACV to do the full test on Line im looking at... the works with hosting the car up

where did you go for that?

do they have a workshop you can take it to??

how much is this going to set you back??

anyway hope it all goes well for you, goodluck with the car :laugh:

if anyone else knows of a place i'm sure we'd all like to know about it

i just went through this, it's a pain in the but. i used racv, the only thing is they wouldnt come out to see it, cos its an import or something, anyways they'll only do a comprehensive check, set me back $215. it can get expensive if they dont pass, the first one i got checked out didnt. if its a black series 2 in the malvern area pm me lol

Im actually going to look at a car this week aswell and i was thnkin the exact same thing... where can i get a full inspection of the car done??????

where did you go for that?

do they have a workshop you can take it to??

how much is this going to set you back??

anyway hope it all goes well for you, goodluck with the car :/

if anyone else knows of a place i'm sure we'd all like to know about it

Well I booked it so they are doing it tomorrow, then fax the details the next day.

I rang via their direct number and got connected to the department. The car is in Dandenong so they the nearest RACV place is at Cheltenham... the car yard guy has agreed to drive it there on Wednesday... although the car is not complianced yet.

Im an RACV member so it cost me 215... but they should do a major test... host it up etc, for non mbers its closer to 280.

Ill let you know at the end of the week how it all goes.

Edited by Sir-D
Well I booked it so they are doing it tomorrow, then fax the details the next day.

I rang via their direct number and got connected to the department. The car is in Dandenong so they the nearest RACV place is at Cheltenham... the car yard guy has agreed to drive it there on Wednesday... although the car is not complianced yet.

Im an RACV member so it cost me 215... but they should do a major test... host it up etc, for non mbers its closer to 280.

Ill let you know at the end of the week how it all goes.

what car yard? power rd? the guys at cheltnam did 2 tests for me, they check everything, even picked up some body repairs that i couldnt see.... plus they'll pick things you might not notice in a test drive

Well I booked it so they are doing it tomorrow, then fax the details the next day.

I rang via their direct number and got connected to the department. The car is in Dandenong so they the nearest RACV place is at Cheltenham... the car yard guy has agreed to drive it there on Wednesday... although the car is not complianced yet.

Im an RACV member so it cost me 215... but they should do a major test... host it up etc, for non mbers its closer to 280.

Ill let you know at the end of the week how it all goes.

i actually went out to pick up the report, that way the guy that did it can discuss it with you and point things out...

good luck...

Edited by morgsj50

My old man once bought a car after having it "RACV inspected" and they missed a whole heap of stuff and the car ended up being a lemon. Better to take u car to an import specialist. Theres quite a few in the SE region, kangaroo rd oakleigh is one but there are others that i can remember off the top of my head.

I had Nizpro do the pre purchase inspection on my car.

Cost was $250 and included a road test, full mechanical and suspension/brake inspection. Body/chassis inspection.

Leak down and compression test along with a power and air/fuel ratio test on the dyno.

I thought it was expensive at the time but after seeing that RACV want over $200 to scratch there heads I guess its a bargain.

Do RACV do a leak down?

My old man once bought a car after having it "RACV inspected" and they missed a whole heap of stuff and the car ended up being a lemon. Better to take u car to an import specialist. Theres quite a few in the SE region, kangaroo rd oakleigh is one but there are others that i can remember off the top of my head.

I was unable to get my friend mechanic to look at it as he has a workshop in Brunswick but the car is in Dandenong. But after RACV check the car and if they OK it, ill take the car to him and do another inspection to confirm what they said... if anything is dodgy its back to the car yard to fix the problems or money back.

Edited by Sir-D
I was unable to get my friend mechanic to look at it as he has a workshop in Brunswick but the car is in Dandenong. But after RACV check the car and if they OK it, ill take the car to him and do another inspection to confirm what they said... if anything is dodgy its back to the car yard to fix the problems or money back.

Thats it, also make sure u do a leak down test, prb the most important one

Thats it, also make sure u do a leak down test, prb the most important one

Well the report came today... there is a need to catalytic converter to be changed (i think its cos of Australian compliance) also the engine has oil leaks which needs immidiate attention according to RACV. I told the car yard and they are meant to fix it up this and next week. I told them unles they fix it Im not getting it. Shoukd I bargain on the price now since theres a few things wrong with it? Also it drifts slightly to the left when driving so wheel balance is needed.

Leak down test is to see what leaks like the oil??

i'd be careful, the car yard is gonna fix it as cheap as they possibly can... depending on what else is wrong, i'd probably be lookin else where, but, at the end of the day it's your money...

Yeah I will have to get it rechecked by RACV again, its like 75 bucks. Also the car has 12 month warranty as long as you service every 6 K and no engine mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...