Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Miko has a 2200lbs pressure plate, if that. It might even be 2000lbs. After driving a load of cars with 2500lb clutches I can assure you Miko's isn't 2500lb.

Try Rob's clutch before you decide. You won't even need to start the car to see what I mean. They are leg breakers.

okies i'll have a chat to Ross.

edit: righto just called Ross

yeah the 2500lb is a tad heavy but should hold 400hp

the 2000-2200lb which is in Micko's (correct u were rev) should hold 350hp and is much easier to drive.

this is with the DCB clutch plate (9 finger purple)

with the organic 9 finger jobs he said your better off with 2500lb pressure plate as then it will hold the 350hp but the 2000-2200lb may or may not hold it.

Troy/rev,

I drove Rob's car last night, and while I ddin't find it heavy in the slightest, maybe I'm too used to my twin and 4-puck, I must admit I didn't like the take up. It was most annoying to drive, even a short distance, so I would check what your getting and perhaps drive a car with it in first, cause you will be stuck with it for a long time.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeh, horses mouth sounds like the idea....

Just gotta get some fold behind me, then i'll go talk the sphincter of the universe with Ross.

But just wanna know a rough cost of _just_ the clutch, not the pressure plate job ?

rev210: What's the reason you only replaced the clutch, and not the pressure plate ?

Yes you are probably right , I think it was a 2000-2200 lb pressure plate in Micko's and mine.

What makes it easy with the GTR is the vacuum assisted clutch.

Do the R33 GTST 's have that ??

Cheers

Ken

Well its installed.... I got the 2000 Pressure plate, my initial feeling is that is nice and easy to drive, its easy on my leg and doesnt slip.... I just have to get used to the new friction point ( much much lower down on the pedal ) but that is going to happen with any new clutch...

Overall very happy.... I have already started on the approx 200k's of running it in...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...