Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have recently purchased an R32 with a standard RB20 in it. I am not happy with the power its producing.

Mods i have done so far:

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Pod Filter

Hybrid fmic

What would be the best modifications to get next... Boost Controller? new ECU?

From your experience what are the best ways to get more power out of an RB20?

Any advice will be appreciated! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108572-better-performance-for-an-rb20det/
Share on other sites

I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller just yet.

Elongate the wastegate actuator holes and set it up on the dyno @ 1bar if you have an fmic or ~12psi without.

The idea is you reduce the wastegates travel, as a result increasing boost.

It works very very well.

A bleeder will tend to drop boost when trying to run 1bar, 12psi will be fine, the wastegate actuator mod won't. + its free.

If you find its running out of fuel, be prepared to fork out for a fuel pump.

I ran mine on 1bar for almost 4 years I believe it was. ;)

Good oil with regular changes, heat range 6 sparky's and ensure afr's are good with no detonation will see the turbo living a long life.

Sometimes you luck out, life is such. :D

Winding the boost made a bit of a difference on mine when i had it, and i just used a t-piece.

The biggest differences i found, and was quite a big difference was an RB25 turbo @ 16psi and i got an ecu from dr drift. That was in a 180sx, but would have ran 12.7-8's for sure, and was more driveable and much better on fuel than before i got the chipped ecu. The turbo was no laggier, and revved cleanly till 8000rpm

Hi.

Please have a red of the sticky thread in this section :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

Thats a good thread to start you off.

Then these threads to give you an idea of what mods will get you:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=54854

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8229&hl=260rwkw

I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller just yet.

Elongate the wastegate actuator holes and set it up on the dyno @ 1bar if you have an fmic or ~12psi without.

The idea is you reduce the wastegates travel, as a result increasing boost.

It works very very well.

A bleeder will tend to drop boost when trying to run 1bar, 12psi will be fine, the wastegate actuator mod won't. + its free.

If you find its running out of fuel, be prepared to fork out for a fuel pump.

I ran mine on 1bar for almost 4 years I believe it was. :D

Good oil with regular changes, heat range 6 sparky's and ensure afr's are good with no detonation will see the turbo living a long life.

Sometimes you luck out, life is such. :D

Thanks for the advice, how do you elongate the wastegate actuator holes can this be a DIY or do you need to go to a performance workshop?? If so, any recomendations?? Im really considering getting an RB25 Turbo - where is the best place to buy RB25 Turbo's from? (im in sydney). I have moeny to play around with but not be f#cked around with :blush:

Buy a DR Drift boost controller.. Boost will come on earlier and gives you the option of changing boost level much easier...

Modifying the actuator is an oldschool mod for when boost controllers were too expensive.

Edited by Drift_Limo

Drift_Limo,

I run the 'dr_drift' boost controller, it drops boost from 14 down to 11 running the vg30 turbo.

The manual boost controller to bring boost on a 'little' quicker then the actuator mod to reduce travel to prevent boost dropping.

Just the boost controller alone won't prevent the rb20's usual boost drop. :P

Chris,

Pop the bonnet and have a look at the actuator.

The actuator bolts on to the turbo with 2 bolts, when you remove the actuator you simply elongate the holes to the right.

The wastegate mod essentially does EXACTLY the same thing as buying an aftermarket adjustable actuator for ~$120.

The aftermarket actuator uses a bolt on the actuator arm to adjust it in or out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
    • Is this where I say "Hey man my airbox cost me horsepower in my Naturally Aspirated Engine"? (I know you need them for legality in NSW)
    • 1.5mm alloy folded up, it will need a tweek, as the angled bend only got to around 45° as that was the max that the break press would get with the other bends, and I needed a fair bit more, but and the alloy is easy to bend too my will by hand once I trim the lower section out I'll Dremel out and form the angle and mounting point on the lower section when time permits  As for the lid, I'm looking at going a "cap", instead of a flat lid to hide the fixtures a bit
×
×
  • Create New...