Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i was wondering if anyone knew of any hassles or precautions that may occur when fitting a rb25 to r32 gts4 , and any idea's or comments about engineers cert for it("does it need it"). also is it worth wild over looking the 26 because of cost and oppting for the 25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109142-r32-rb25-help-plz/
Share on other sites

PM Blind Elk...did the same thing you are considering, champ bloke who wont lead you astray with BS if he doesnt know...unlike me, who will tell you RB25s suck....p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :P

...p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :)
Oi. I represent those remarks :P

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET. My RB20DET punched a whopping 115 kW through all 4; the RB25DET, running aftermarket ECU and crap 95 octane (Oz octane) and 10psi pushed 180 out through all 4 wheels. I figure that's close to a stock GT-R, and beats the crap out of those 5 litre lumps of cast iron V8 push-rod crap that can't even push that off the flywheel.

Oi. I represent those remarks :/

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET.

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Sounds like the planet where i live, but if my bottom end blows, its $100 :/

bottom end might be $100, but the adapter is $450 minimum.

mods to make it work on 4wd = another couple of hundred.

mods to the vvt head to make the vvt work = dollars.

oil restrictors to the head = small dollars

mods to engine mounts = more dollars.

new turbo due to 3L sucking your current turbo dry at idle = $1900 minimum.

to make use of this turbo and capacity, you'd want injectors, fuel pump and new tune = many more hundreds.

if you don't have the PFC already to run all this = $1000

New AFM to make use of all these goodies during the tune = $300 +

as much has I hate to say it, my rb30 dreaming days are over for the gts4.

I'm stuck with the ROYb20det.. :/

I've worked out I should be able to get to a REAL goal of about 200rwkw with about $4K and still have a drivable road car without TOO much extra lag.

I'll save my rb30 dreams for the future.. if I can be bothered.

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

Im not sure really, you seem for too sensible to become a blibbering RB20 POWAH idiot :no:

WHne im back in Syd next, take my car for a spin...im betting it will convince you to spend the extra 6 months spreading the cost of the RB309 over a longer period. I love my cars...its ace...but if you want grunty mid it just doesnt do the job

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)
If you're in Melbourne, you bring a trailer and $600 round to my place - I still have the RB20 that I took out of the R32.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...