Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 Er34 GT-T Sedan

2.5 Litre NEO6 Turbo engine

4 Speed tip-tronic auto with steering wheel shift

73,000km’s

LSD

Super HICAS

ABS

Airbags- two in the front and 2x side impact

Traction control

All power options

3.5inch Blitz Nur exhaust (plus silencer)

3inch Turbo dump and front pipe

600hp Hi-Flow CatCo Catalytic converter

Pod filter

600x300x76 front mounted intercooler

Profec A Electronic Boost Controller

Turbo Timer

SAFCII Black (Tuned by Hyperdrive)

Xenon lights with adjustable tilt

After market stereo with MD player (jap one ie shitty radio) and Alpine Type R subwoofer

Serviced every 5000km’s with Mobil 1 and replaced plugs with iridium’s

Power output of 250rwhp @ 10.5psi. Was also tuned richer than most people get to keep it in the green.

Stock exhaust and filter still in garage. But stock IC has been sold. Comes with spare tyres 4x Bridgestone G-Grid IIs with lots of tread left (taken off for compliance).

Now replacing rear bumper...

Cost of ownership...

$901 a year in insurance and im 22 with 60%NCB.

Costs about $60-70 to fill with BP Ultimate and gets between 450-550km's depending on how its driven.

Servicing costs about 70 bucks every 5000 (im sure you can do it every 10 but I wont)

Asking 23k ONO

PM or email... [email protected]

*Added more pics*

post-17793-1142126804.jpg

post-17793-1142126888.jpg

post-17793-1142126909.jpg

post-17793-1142126928.jpg

post-17793-1142126943.jpg

post-17793-1144664239.jpg

post-17793-1144664254.jpg

post-17793-1144664277.jpg

post-17793-1144664294.jpg

post-17793-1144664302.jpg

post-17793-1144664316.jpg

post-17793-1144664334.jpg

post-17793-1144664341.jpg

post-17793-1144664355.jpg

post-17793-1144664381.jpg

post-17793-1144664391.jpg

post-17793-1144664430.jpg

post-17793-1144664468.jpg

post-17793-1144664481.jpg

post-17793-1144667122.jpg

post-17793-1144667167.jpg

Edited by SnRuB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109261-r34-gtt-sedan/
Share on other sites

the missus wants that auto :O

I must stay strong for the manual... :ninja: hehe. good luck with the sale.

btw...got pics of that crack in the bumper?

Edited by mickey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109261-r34-gtt-sedan/#findComment-2073244
Share on other sites

the missus wants that auto :laugh:

I must stay strong for the manual... :D hehe. good luck with the sale.

btw...got pics of that crack in the bumper?

Yeah i know where you're coming from. Same thing, just 12 months ago :-)

My cameara is stuffed so im in the process of buying a new one. But to describe it.... Its the right rear corner. It went into my other car at about 2km/h and is more warped that it is cracked. A few people said i could repair the crack and get it sprayed but a new kit and spray is only 1k more than getting it back to stock anyway.

Let me know if she wins and you want to talk..

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109261-r34-gtt-sedan/#findComment-2073844
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...