Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car in for service - two of my injectors are leaking fuel on R32 GTR.

I can either:

- replace two buggered with 2nd hand stock 444cc

- replace with 6 nismos

- upsize to bigger injectors

Nengun has a deal on SARD 700cc but I don't know if 700cc injectors will be usable in my car

Car is only lightly modded GTR (HKS pods, cat back, restrictor removed) makes about 170KW at wheels.

Advice please?

I have a new Power FC in the box at home - will fit it if I have to, but kinda like the car the way it is.

:P

Any advice gratefully received.

If your happy with the current power it might be an idea to find two replacements.

do u even own a skyline? no skyline owner is ever happy with the power...allways MORE MORE MORE!!! thats me anyway... id b putn bigger injectors and pfc mate

Car in for service - two of my injectors are leaking fuel on R32 GTR.

I can either:

- replace two buggered with 2nd hand stock 444cc

- replace with 6 nismos

- upsize to bigger injectors

Nengun has a deal on SARD 700cc but I don't know if 700cc injectors will be usable in my car

Car is only lightly modded GTR (HKS pods, cat back, restrictor removed) makes about 170KW at wheels.

Advice please?

I have a new Power FC in the box at home - will fit it if I have to, but kinda like the car the way it is.

:cool:

Any advice gratefully received.

Depends on where what level of mods you want to do with your R. If you really are happy with the present level of performance, perhaps consider getting the leaking injectors repaired/diagnosed at a specialist injector place and then getting all cleaned and flow tested.

If I had a "spare" PFC, I would certainly be getting this fitted and tuned ASAP as it offers good "bang for buck". Consider fitting adjustable cam gears at the same time and you will be amazed at the performance increase for the moderate cost outlay. Standard injectors will cope with this power up just fine.

do u even own a skyline? no skyline owner is ever happy with the power...allways MORE MORE MORE!!! thats me anyway... id b putn bigger injectors and pfc mate
Why bother wasting money.

Stock GTR injectors can support round 300rwkw. Replace the 2 stuffed ones with stockies..

But i would definately hook up that Pfc and get it tunned, it would be a different car when you get it back, especially if you turn up the boost a little :cool:

i've got 650cc sard injectors in my rb20det

got a highflowed r33 turbo in it, works fine, 700cc injectors in a rb26 would be ok i'd imagine because the powerfc is pretty good at controlling big injectors

also if you are interested i have some brand new 550cc nismo injectors that i never used, i bought them for my car but ended up going the sards instead. pm me and and i can do you a good deal on them.

xfixiate - you will be totally amazed at what a PowerFC will give you over the stock ECU.

Also with an adj cam gear... it'll be a totally different car

Smoother everywhere, more power to boot.

Personally just buy some second handers, and reco all 6.

However, If its going to cost more than $600 for full reco of them all, i would just spend the extra few bob and get some 555 Nismo or similar.

You dont needs 700's... thats overkill.

I think you're right.

Two second hand ones are going to cost me $100.

Prolly another $150 to get them cleaned. And $20 in freight

So $270 to reco old ones. And assumes I have no more problems.

I should be able to get around $200 selling the existing set.

Nengun wants $640 for 6 brand new SARD 700cc delivered. Little more for Nismo or HKS.

So $440 real cost.

Or, $180 gives me new ones. Damn stupid not to buy newies.

xfixiate - you will be totally amazed at what a PowerFC will give you over the stock ECU.

Also with an adj cam gear... it'll be a totally different car

Smoother everywhere, more power to boot.

Personally just buy some second handers, and reco all 6.

However, If its going to cost more than $600 for full reco of them all, i would just spend the extra few bob and get some 555 Nismo or similar.

You dont needs 700's... thats overkill.

Car in for service - two of my injectors are leaking fuel on R32 GTR.

I can either:

- replace two buggered with 2nd hand stock 444cc

- replace with 6 nismos

- upsize to bigger injectors

Nengun has a deal on SARD 700cc but I don't know if 700cc injectors will be usable in my car

Car is only lightly modded GTR (HKS pods, cat back, restrictor removed) makes about 170KW at wheels.

Advice please?

I have a new Power FC in the box at home - will fit it if I have to, but kinda like the car the way it is.

:D

Any advice gratefully received.

HOLD THE BUS

can we get the moderators to DELETE this post

if word gets out that this guy has a GTR with only 170kw at the wheels (and he's happy with that) - I'll have every noob in a modified WRX lining up with me for weeks :)

Seriously - I'm seeing 280+awkw with std injectors and a PFC in my R32 GTR (I'm on their limit tho) Get some 2nd hand 440cc units flowed and test and you'll be good to go.

BUT - if you want to take advantage of the Nengun offer – and get the 700cc Sards – I'll be more than happy to do a swap with you ;)

Also – I agree – get that PFC installed. You'll jump to 220+awkw over night. It WILL transform the car and your driving experience (no down side)

Edited by itbmils

ahhaha, evan more the reason to leave it... then you can go chop chop scoobiedoo.

pfc, 700cc injectors is nice. youd only have to get them later. sooo giddi up..

wont have any adverse affecs. just hooke them up. :D

besides stock injectors on 14-15pounds are at 90-95%duty. (no point having sequential injection)

(with standart turbs)

But, doe't injectors have to be matched sets?

I mean, if the other 4 are worn, won't the two new ones create an imbalance?

Oh bugger - how can I tell what injectors I have now???? they might not be stock or genuine??????

If you flow test the 6 you're going to run and fit the PFC, you can adjust the relative flow of each injector based on the test results.

Install the PFC man!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...