Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just thought since this seems to be the most active cefiro/laurel forum i can find i would post some pics of my build up :D brought a 1989 cefiro manual rb20e ghetto spec...240kms on her....have since....sanded it back made her smooth and painted her :D (all in my garage) and installed the rb20det ;) etc done pretty well so far including the cost of the car i have only spent $2000.... but i have coilovers,intercooler, and 5 stud conversion to go..go some nice 17 inch tanabe 3 piece rims to go on her :)

paint.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/
Share on other sites

kinggts25 - Mate i would love to pick ur brains about the sanding back and respray! I am about to do the exact thing to mine and have never done it before....

Any chance of a write up of how to, what tools, products used & recommend!!! :D PLZ PLZ PLZ :D

Ie. what did u use to sand her back?? Primer... spraying techniques etc as it looks like a sweet job from that pic....

Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2024503
Share on other sites

how hard was the engine swap to do?

Took about an hour to get the old engine out etc...just used a beam in my garage and a block an tackle :) and about 25 minutes to get the new engine in....the most time consuming part was the wiring which was just pissing around etc...if you have an rb20DE ceffy it wouldnt be a prob though :P it's pretty easy....and the only other mechanical thing i have done on a car is change a diff :) this website is very good ;)http://www.geocities.com/lowrider_c33/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2026359
Share on other sites

kinggts25 - Mate i would love to pick ur brains about the sanding back and respray! I am about to do the exact thing to mine and have never done it before....

Any chance of a write up of how to, what tools, products used & recommend!!! :) PLZ PLZ PLZ :P

Ie. what did u use to sand her back?? Primer... spraying techniques etc as it looks like a sweet job from that pic....

Ando

;) yeah man if you have msn skylinegt25 (at) hotmail.com...pretty much i used real basic equipment i just spent ages on the prep which gets pretty depresseing... cleaned the car, sanded the body with 120 grit to chew thru the clear coat then sanded with 400 grit before applying the 1k etech primer...think i ended up with about 3 -4 coats of this after applying a lil body filler to smooth out some ripples and get rid of the aerial :) after that i left it for about 48 hours to fully dry etc again, then wet sanded it with 400 grit and then to 600/800 grit (the can only said 400 but i wanted smoother lol)...wash the car reaaaally well...make sure its dry...then just before painting use a wax/grease remover (prepsol or similar)...then ur ready to spray base coat...did 4 coats of this...leave for a good period of time and then wet sand this back with 1500 then 2000...then its time for the buffing....which is a mission...haha get a machine....

Basically follow the instructions on the can for times between coats etc...all the equipment i used was very cheap...

Compressor from bunnings $150

Gravity Feed Spray gun $60 (from trademe)

primer $70

Thinners $ 50

Paint (acrylic lacquer) $270

lots of drop coats for covering stuff u dont want overspray on!! $40

sandpaper etc like $30

and lots of masking tape lol get good stuff....proper painters stuff if you use the normal crap it wont pull of cleanly and takes an AGE to scrape the left overs off...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2026366
Share on other sites

Mate ur a legend!!! Thanks a million, appreciate the write up! Will be starting the first sand back hopefully this weekend....

1 quick question.... i assume u did the sanding by hand? Sand paper wrapped around something? Or just a good ole piece of sandpaper and i sh*t load of elbow grease?

Cheers again dude!

Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2026378
Share on other sites

WEAR A RESPIRATOR !!

Best thing I bought when I painted my kit. Did the primer on saturdy with one of those white paper masks and was soo f*kn high by the end I walked around dazed for about 10minutes :)

yeah forgot to mention that!! get a GOOD one! when buying the paint get a spec sheet it will tell you which filters to use! i work for a safety equip supplier so i got mine for about $14 they are the best investment ever!!! also good when sanding bog/fibreglass etc :P any thing like that....buy one or u will die.....my garage was soooo full of fumes and shit.... :huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2026425
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

one of the things i hated about being a panel basher :D all the bloody dust and fumes.

no wonder i cough so much now.

looks good mate... now i have a garage to work in im going to be doing something similar to my car... pity its a VL lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109871-my-taxi/#findComment-2240784
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...