Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

on the way home last night, i was cruising along doing 85km, and all of a sudden the HICAS light came on, it didnt go out so i pulled over, turnoed of car and looked under at it,, (all looks good to me) fuse in engine bay is fine,

so i started the car, and all lights out, then about 4 or 5 seconds after the engine is started it comes on again...

Can anyone help me out here, or suggest whats wrong with it?

any help would be great,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109957-hicas/
Share on other sites

I know the problem... The HICAS is still installed.

Get one of GTRGeoff's lock bars and get rid of it, the lock bar was the best $150 I've spent on my car.

agreed! that's your problem right there! :)

oh, and take the bulb out of the dash when u take off the rack, or it'll stay on and annoy the shit outta you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109957-hicas/#findComment-2026717
Share on other sites

hey Silver_R34_GT-T, is your car still under warranty since you only had it under a year?

HICAS is a real bitch as pretty much no mecanics know that shit in Australia. Ring up Nissan and have a chat, I think that Nissan at Windsor has worked on HICAS before, so I would say give them a go. If not try Fulcrum as they do steering.

Best of luck dude.

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109957-hicas/#findComment-2029047
Share on other sites

thanks for the responses guys, I got in the car this moring, and bam it was on still, then half way to work, it went out and i havent seen it since..

Im hoping maybe it was a bad connection somewhere and it spat itself for a while.. **fingers crossed** maybe its a sign shes on her way out.

Bryn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109957-hicas/#findComment-2029071
Share on other sites

*Hops on bandwagon*

Dude, it's been said before but HICAS is NOT your friend. It also stands for "help I can't actually steer". Dumping it and getting one of GTRGeoff's lock bars in there was one of the best things I did to my 34.

Not a lot of point having a performance car if you don't have any confidence in its handling.

On the whole loose connection thing though, there are a couple of plug-in pin connector things on the motor and sensors attached to rack on the back of your car, maybe give them a wiggle and make sure it's all on tight and the connections are clean.

(pic added - the HICAS unit right before we ripped it off!)

post-17890-1142859178.jpg

Edited by jmac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109957-hicas/#findComment-2034613
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...