Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you are confusing the Mines and Veilside GTR's as I believe the Mines Demo car is 600hp not 1300hp.

haha damn you beat me to it !!!

Yeah what Benm said......2530`s are already giving it their all to muster them 600hp.....somehow I dont think you can squeeze 1300hp out of them.....

Having said that...id rather the Mines GTR over the Veilside one anyday......even with less than half the hp.

I just need to win lotto...

I promised myself I wouldn't do this but I just have to correct 2 points in this thread.

1. The Mines R34 GTR DOES NOT make 1300hp. It makes approx. 600ps

2. The Bonnet on the car is NOT a Z Tune bonnet. It is a NISMO R TUNE Bonnet.

ok lets try and bring some order to this discussion as i know the owner of the "mines gtr" (complete legend i may add) and saw it get built from the ground up . I have also had the pleasure of seeing many of the receipts ......ouch, but it was done properly

ok engine$$$$$ lots and lots not 25k

the advertised price for the mines engine is a rather standard affair. If you want bigger valves, bigger oil pumps, cc head and so on you have to pay and it aint cheap. and that price also dosnt include a block, head or a crank($10,000). so when someones says you can buy a mines crate engine for 25k ask for a few. Oh that also dosnt include turbos, manifolds or plenum oh they also cost money coz Mr mines does some nice work to those aswell.

Suspension and you thought the engine was expensive. Start looking around at what top quality suspension costs and you will realise this aint cheap, oh and not your HKS hyper dampers either lol.

Mines were also limited in what they could use on their car. If it aint a mines product it aint on their car. This car has the best products from every tuner in japan. Mr mines himself said that it feels faster then his car when he drove it, but because one is in japan and one is in oz its kinda hard to race them together(damn that big bit of ocean)

There is more and more that i could keep going with but its all to hard, yes you can go and buy a more powerfull gtr and it will go very fast in a straight line. But will it stop, turn and then go fast again ??? There is a reason Fred Gibsons old r32 gtrs ran about the same power. And they were unbeatable at bathurst. Power means almost nothing unless you need to win an autosaloon dyno comp or need to brag on forums

Total build cost was well over 300k and that dosnt include labour and frieght costs for all parts from japan. Was it worth it ??? who knows but it does lap a few of our circuits faster then his friends gt2(alot faster) and he paid 400k for the gt2 . Is it worth 170k to buy now....... depends what ya want. but it does look way cool and sounds like no other gtr you have ever heard.

  • 4 months later...

So how much does a mines crate engine cost with turbos, plenum, fuel rail, injectors etc... and where could I get it from i.e. which dealer in Australia (if any?)

Edited by Ants
So how much does a mines crate engine cost with turbos, plenum, fuel rail, injectors etc... and where could I get it from i.e. which dealer in Australia (if any?)

talk to beer baron and read the last quote on this page and the next 5-6 on the page after. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...30949&st=80

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...