Jump to content
SAU Community

Retune Your Factory Ecu! 10-11/04/06


Dr_Drift
 Share

Recommended Posts

I remap most Nissan ECU's and the result is often better that most aftermarket computers and the total cost is substantially less. Significant gains can even be made on standard engines.

I would like to suggest that ALL vehicles have upgraded fuel pumps (standard are way bad), full tanks of whatever petrol you want the car tuned on, maintained vehicles (serviced, good spark plugs etc).

Remap Prices cover initial ECU modifications, and loading of pre-tuned maps to suit, these will then need 1-1.5 hours of dyno time tuned specifically to your vehicle and fuel. Dyno time as mentioned will be around $180/hr. ECU modification and Base Maps priced as follows:

S13 CA18 - $330

S13 SR20 - $450

S14 SR20 - $660

S15 SR20 - $660

R32 RB20 - $330

R32 RB26 - $330

R33 RB25 - N/A

R34 RB25 - $660

Z32 VG30 - $330

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chaos - Sure Why not, if it saves me a few hours of stress trying to get a micro guess right.... What loom is in the car?

Dave - S2 and S1 are the same.... I do have a package where I can offer a remapped R32 ECU and use an external VCT controller (like buddy club for $85 I heard)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just quick one for RB20 people. I had mine done last time Sam was up. Worth every cent hey. And I didnt need the dyno time, just did a quick test and afr almost straight line on 12. Not saying you wont need dyno time, but if you have minimal mods, and it comes out ok, its really good value for money.

I would highly recomend it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chaos - Sure Why not, if it saves me a few hours of stress trying to get a micro guess right.... What loom is in the car?

Dave - S2 and S1 are the same.... I do have a package where I can offer a remapped R32 ECU and use an external VCT controller (like buddy club for $85 I heard)

Its an R32 loom, but doubt the car will be back on the road in time, and if it is i wont be able to afford the tune. Maybe next time your up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave - S2 and S1 are the same.... I do have a package where I can offer a remapped R32 ECU and use an external VCT controller (like buddy club for $85 I heard)

Are you sure?? I have recently had to replace my factory ECU on a R33 S2 (1996) and we tried four Series 1 ECU's and they wouldn't even talk to the car. Borrowed one out of a R34 GTT (1998) and it was perfect. Same sticker and serial numbers also.

Moot point for me anyway as I now have a haltech. Thanks for your time though.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stand corrected, if you still have your ECU can you take a photo with it's lid off so i can see the board? I may be able to remap them like the 34's :(

Sam.

Edited by Dr_Drift
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So after some Chat GPT (yeah I know lol..) it turns out that the R35 GT-R BMC conversion may not be suitable for our shit boxes as it splits the fluid 60:40 instead of 70:30. When looking at possibly doing the 370Z conversion, it seems it's quite similar to how the R35 GT-R booster & BMC mounts up, however after some additional digging the 370Z BMC bore is the same size as a R33/34 GT-R BM57 one. Brake Pressure Split: Nissan 370Z: The typical front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the 370Z is approximately 70:30. This is designed to handle the car’s weight distribution and performance characteristics, favoring the front brakes heavily due to weight transfer during braking. Nissan R33 GT-R: The front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the R33 GT-R is also typically 70:30. However, this ratio is tuned for the GT-R's specific weight distribution and dynamic performance, considering its all-wheel-drive system and higher performance expectations. Despite having the same nominal 70:30 ratio, the actual distribution of braking force in practice can be different due to other factors like vehicle weight, ABS and EBD systems, and brake component sizes. Bore Sizes: The bore size of a brake master cylinder affects the hydraulic pressure generated within the braking system and can vary between different vehicles based on their braking requirements. Nissan 370Z: The brake master cylinder typically has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore. The secondary bore can vary slightly depending on specific trim levels and brake options, such as the Nismo version or those equipped with the Sport Package which features larger brakes. Nissan R33 GT-R: The brake master cylinder in the R33 GT-R generally has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore as well. Given the GT-R's high-performance context and advanced braking system, the bore size is designed to provide sufficient hydraulic pressure for its braking needs. Comparison: Brake Pressure Split: While both vehicles use a similar 70:30 ratio in the brake master cylinder design, the actual operational distribution might differ slightly due to differences in brake system components, vehicle dynamics, and tuning for each model. Bore Sizes: Both the 370Z and R33 GT-R use a master cylinder with a primary bore size of around 1 inch (25.4 mm). This similarity helps in providing robust hydraulic pressure for effective braking. Additional Considerations: Braking System Design: The overall brake system, including calipers, rotors, and the master cylinder, is designed to work as an integrated unit. Even with similar bore sizes and pressure splits, the performance and feel of the brakes can differ due to variations in brake pad composition, rotor size, and ABS tuning. ABS and EBD: Both vehicles are equipped with Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD), which further modulate and optimize braking force between the front and rear wheels dynamically, depending on driving conditions and brake demand. In essence, while the 370Z and R33 GT-R have some similarities in their brake master cylinder specifications, they are tuned to meet the specific performance and handling characteristics of each vehicle.   TL;DR, just use a R33 BM57 and call it a day.
    • Straight thru's have so little restriction that it's almost certainly not worth worrying about effects on tuning. Even a centre offset shouldn't upset things, but would be noticeably more effective (quiet).
    • I did say "2x Magnaflows" then referred to a Varex. So to un-confuse that, my rear muffler is hot-swappable with a Varex. When I had a RB Turbo, I had the 2x Magnaflows, then went LS and though "Oh that's way too loud" and ordered a Varex. A mid muffler will definitely help a lot, even if straight through. SP Mufflers can make anything as big or as small as possible, which will help even more. Looking at my own exhaust I could make the muffler twice as long if I wanted to. Or you could go crazy and get 2x mufflers from SP and full every remaining space with muffling. In my experience closing the Varex makes the car run VERY rich (obviously). I'd say adding a muffler *will* affect things, on a technical, physics level, but I don't think you'd need a retune as the actual effect would be the car running a *tiny* bit richer due to more restriction, on a strictly physics level, but you kind of don't have any option if you want the car to make less sound.
    • I must have read 100 DIY's and watched 200 DIY Youtube videos with most people saying just grab a new cover and, well, despite my normal aproach to these things (replace it all!!) I didn't get a cover. I don't know why I didn't, I'd already ordered a bunch of bits from FCP and it would have made perfect sense to put that in the order.  Anyway, I'm not getting OEM as its just crazy money, even from the states its 900 ish delivered. So, I got an OE Elring one, same as they sell at FCP but local so I can get this fixed this week. Our X5 is waiting for a new diff so we find ourselves in a common scenario of having 2 broken BMW's on the driveway! 🤣
    • Big thing is available inputs for sensors and not having to run multiple expander boxes and software packages for different things why motec is up there. The link ecu and an aim pdm32 was a combination I looked at early on so get ecu, dash and pdm in one go. Aim logging software is pretty good and has all the tracks I will ever drive. Having logging setup with tracks already available is a big thing for myself so can click drop down and go. Thing that I keep seeing is the support what's needed and having a package that people in the know are familiar with as learning a new platform is time consuming.    Got a few boxes that arrived with bits while I was away so hopefully will fit a few sensors and make a start on the dump pipe today. Going to be interesting fitting a 3.5 inch exhaust on this and keeping it above the chassis rails. 
×
×
  • Create New...