Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i got mine through a mate just 2 days ago, the tensior is NSK brand the parts No is a "BT217" and the Idler is a Pitwork brand and the parts number is "BT218". now i got mine for $300 all up but that was mates rates,

i do remember seeing that thread randy is talking about a while ago but i forgot all about it until randy just posted it then. oh well. it mite have also been a post in a thread im not sure. hope that helps you out.

i spent all day yesterday trying to find a good deal on this stuff. rang repco and got quoted $697 for gates racing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump. about 5 phone calls later i had it down to $320 for all these parts. my tensioner and idler came from a bearing place and cost $130 all up so you should be looking around this mark for non genuine. oh by the way nissan quoted $89 for tensioner and $246 for idler and thats trade price.

got my bearings from

BEARING INDUSTRIES

(02)96745085

Part numbers

TENSIONER; 60TB0732A $40 + GST

IDLER ; 56TB2801B01 $42 +GST

got them freighted to me, took next to no time at all.

Bearings are NSK and seem no different than standard

Edited by Hootchy

i got my tensioner for $94 from coventry auto (mates rates) part number is TBT1810.

same price for my idler, part number is TBT1816.

im pretty sure theres a coventry auto in WA. retail on these parts are $172 each.

got my bearings from

BEARING INDUSTRIES

(02)96745085

Part numbers

TENSIONER; 60TB0732A $40 + GST

IDLER ; 56TB2801B01 $42 +GST

got them freighted to me, took next to no time at all.

Bearings are NSK and seem no different than standard

just had a look at my tensioner bearing (its also NSK brand) but the part No u said is different to mine, my one has "60TB0683" wonder why that is????

I'd say, just quote the numbers you have to Bearing Industries, and they'll have the suitable one for you, at a fraction of the price!

BTW: Hootchy's info is the post that I was referring to. I will be calling to get those parts for myself in the next week or two. =-]

just had a look at my tensioner bearing (its also NSK brand) but the part No u said is different to mine, my one has "60TB0683" wonder why that is????

I also got that same number off this old thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73517

they also found differences in the part numbers

Yeah mate - all inclusive

I ended getting onefrom BSC and the other from CBC. CBC had them listed as different part numbers though - but the numbers were stuck over the original part number (???)

It seems the difference in the part numbers may be due to cataloging changes.

Bearings with either number seem to both do the job.

The blokes at BEARING INDUSTRIES said they sell these to various workshops in sydney.

It seems the difference in the part numbers may be due to cataloging changes.

Bearings with either number seem to both do the job.

The blokes at BEARING INDUSTRIES said they sell these to various workshops in sydney.

cool, well i got my mate to ring up bearing industries today for me, and ask what there prices were for the bearings, and they said they have never sold them for $40 or $42??? so how the hell did u get em at that price, do u know sum1 who works there or sumthing??

Maybe I just got lucky :P

post-24599-1142845702.jpg

I asked for rb25 ones and I'm sure that's what I got .

I've had my old tensioner, new tensioner and an RB30 tensioner all side by side

and the only difference is that the RB30 tensioner pulley was about 1mm shallower

Maybe I just got lucky :P

post-24599-1142845702.jpg

I asked for rb25 ones and I'm sure that's what I got .

I've had my old tensioner, new tensioner and an RB30 tensioner all side by side

and the only difference is that the RB30 tensioner pulley was about 1mm shallower

welll maybe my mate is trying to pull a swiftie to pocket sum cash for him self, but its too late now. i believed u, i just wasnt sure if u knew sum1 there or not to get them at that price. oh well. il do thew research myself next time. just comes back to who u can trust really hey..... :P

Edited by 85URK

Try avoid paying Nissan rrp.

When I was gettin my idler & tensioner done there was a shortage. It was hard to believe not one bearing company in SA had any & their suppliers & trade partners namely in NSW wouldnt sell it to them coz, they had a shortage as well. Must of been a whole bunch of you eastern states getting them done at the same time *shakes fist at easterners* :). Ended up resorting to genuine Nissan & lighter pockets.

  • 10 months later...

just had a look at my tensioner bearing (its also NSK brand) but the part No u said is different to mine, my one has "60TB0683" wonder why that is????

Hi guys I just purchased my tensioner and idler bearings through State Wide Bearings.

I compared the two different NSK tensioner bearings 60TB0683 and 60TB0732A.

They are the same dimensions etc but have different bearings. It looks like the 60TB0683 has replaced the 60TB0732A. The bearing in the 60TB0683 is not as wide as the other, Almost looks like there's only one row of ball bearings in this newer one. The 60TB0732A looks like it would have 2 rows of bearings in it. They have probably done this as a cost saving move. I am going to use the older 60TB0732A. This is not 100% confirmed but looks like it to me and the guy who worked there.

Hope that clears up a few things.

Edited by Fry_33
  • 3 months later...
Fry,

are you saying that 60TB0683 is the newer one with the 2 rows (ie better).. i am a bit confused by your last statement.

Sorry Kent,

I wrote it a while back and obviously didn't proof read it well, if at all. I just edited it to the way it should have been.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...