Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, my gtr has been sitting around for a while without being started, and i tried to start it today - no suprise, a flat battery

So i get the jumper leads from the other car and hook them up, the voltmeter shows almost half way, i turn it over and the starter motor is working, but the engine wont fire up

What would that be?

The manifold pressure keeps rising as it tries to start ive noticed.

I cant roll start it - so that is out of the question

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110357-rb26-turns-over-but-wont-fire/
Share on other sites

Guys, my gtr has been sitting around for a while without being started, and i tried to start it today - no suprise, a flat battery

So i get the jumper leads from the other car and hook them up, the voltmeter shows almost half way, i turn it over and the starter motor is working, but the engine wont fire up

What would that be?

The manifold pressure keeps rising as it tries to start ive noticed.

I cant roll start it - so that is out of the question

Thanks in advance

Not enough voltage/current?

Turning over slow?

Try a better jumper battery, larger jumper leads or charge the battery overnight.

:P cheers :D

PS, you're a naughty boy, you should drive your GTR everyday.

It turns over at normal speed to start, then gets slower until theres nothing

Ive tried letting it charge for a while, but nothing

I also noticed the tacho goes spastic when the starter motor is trying to start the car

How would i charge it overnight?

It turns over at normal speed to start, then gets slower until theres nothing

Ive tried letting it charge for a while, but nothing

I also noticed the tacho goes spastic when the starter motor is trying to start the car

How would i charge it overnight?

Your also trying to push power from the jumper battery through the dead cells of the other battery. Overnight charging will be needed, also the cranking will be filling cylinders with fuel....not good for the plugs.

i had my car off the road for 4 months while respraying... then it never idled again after that ..

ECU shat itself somehow, didn't work til i changed to pfc..

battery for sealed 550CCA should be around $140

Steve, my car went flat while I was in Japan and there wasnt enough current left to jump it, or to register a charge using the trickle charger.

I got around it by connecting jumper leads at the back, connecting them to another car to get charge going in, then connected a charger to the terminals in the engine bay, which then registered charge.

Left it for 24 hours and hey presto :)

That said, it sounds like there might be another reason for your car failing to start :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...