Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

as mentioned in the thread title, where do I find the paint and trim codes for my car? I looked on the Jap compliance plates, but couldn't really make out if any of the info there is supposed to represent these...

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/
Share on other sites

Got my mate at Protec paints to knock me up some for my Silky White pearl stagea - got enough for a spray for half a car, in case of a crash. LOL

Any idea where I could get a small amout of bayside blue? I still haven't done my left hand mirror... (I've got a 'new' one but it is the wrong color..).

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2040839
Share on other sites

Any idea where I could get a small amout of bayside blue? I still haven't done my left hand mirror... (I've got a 'new' one but it is the wrong color..).

Ian

Take the car to a crash repair place and get a quote from them; pretty easy for them to knock up a small amount for you and spray the mirror.

I cant help myself, sorry; my friend has since left Protec, thats why he said he'd knock up some for me (on the side of course) when he did, going back to when I bought the car mid-last year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2040923
Share on other sites

I had a look at the Nissan archives page that mike40sydney posted up, and Z trim does apply to the leather pack too.

I think the J trim must be a lower level one for X- and G-spec Stageas, and the RS models and above all have Z-spec trim.

Here it is: http://history.nissan.co.jp/STAGEA/PAGES/MC0831/color.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2042482
Share on other sites

Take the car to a crash repair place and get a quote from them; pretty easy for them to knock up a small amount for you and spray the mirror.

I cant help myself, sorry; my friend has since left Protec, thats why he said he'd knock up some for me (on the side of course) when he did, going back to when I bought the car mid-last year.

Might be easy, but they are giving me quotes of $300 (I don't think they want to do jobs that small...)...

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2043494
Share on other sites

Sorry Goldzilla, didn't see your question tucked under that huge pic :P

I think the trim colour code relates to the door and roof trim as Terminal has stated, and also the dash and carpet colour.

There's two codes, Z and J. I know from mine that Z is black dash, console, door skins, grey roof and rear trim, dark grey carpet.

I think J is lighter colours, someone who has this trim would be able to describe it.

The only other differences would be the seats and the fill on the doors, which is dependant on model or options (eg, leather).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2043978
Share on other sites

i think the Z trim relates to the door and roof trim, the leather is a different feature

Quite right

Heres some pics of colours and paint codes and a chart with the trim combos for series 2 if anyone has the paint code for series 1 dark blue let me know and I will add it in.

COLOURS.jpg

TRIMS.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110547-paint-code/#findComment-2044614
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...