Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

Mate's car (coming ex-Japan) has an S-AFC installed. That's the version with the blue screen, six buttons.

The S-AFC II has the rotating knob instead of the buttons, and offers slightly more capability (more tuning points, knock reading, etc).

Without having a look-see at how it's wired up, is it possible to just unplug the S-AFC and replace it with a S-AFC II?? Or are the harnesses different in the newer one??

Thanks..

Ive never even looked at my knock sensor.

Here in SA the ecu add-ons are illegal, so mine are 'hidden' from view

"sorry occifer, I dont have a glovebox key, have no idea a SAFC2 & SITC are in there - wow sir dont those screens look p'rrity sir?"

maybe I can just shout out "I NEVER BROKE THE LAW - - - - I AM THE LAW"

and then crush his Trachea with my mind, Darth Vader style.

LOL

Edited by Tangles

Tell you mate to just stick with the SAFC, does the same job really. If the ecu is picking up knock it will retard timing. The knock sensor does give you something to look at when your sitting at the lights, watching it slowly creep, nowhere near dangerous however... but thats about all it does for me.

That is ofcourse if the warfies and sneaky boat people dont steal the safc outa the car on its way over from japan...

What I want to know is how accurate the SAFC knock reading actually is... I find that mine fluctuates with the weather (air temp)

Lowest I've seen after hour long drive = 0 ~ 15

Highest I've seen after hour long drive = 50 ~ 60

Obviously the air temps are very different on these two occasions.

From memory the plugs on the loom fopr the safc are physically different (the SAFC2 is wider) so if upgrading you will need to install it properly.

The SAFC2 only uses 1 wire for knock, the ECU's on RB's use 2 knock sensors hence 2 wires.

IMO it's already got an safc1 no point wasting the money an an safc 2 unless you REALLY want to see the knock reading (like me :))

as for accuracy, it varies from car to car because the baseline reading that you set in it (when you first calibrate them) would be different depending on the health of the engine.

All very good points.

In my opinion, I SERIOUSLY suggest do NOT buy a SAFCII, but do in fact BUY a Apexi Super Ignition Timing Computer (SITC).

Search ebay and pick one up, to compliment the tuning of the original SAFC. Worth every penny....

>_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...