Jump to content
SAU Community

Do You Know Of Any Good And Nasty Motorsport Related Lawyer?


Recommended Posts

My friend is having trouble getting his car back in drivable condition from a workshop. The workshop did some engineering & welding for him and the weld did not hold, did a lot of damage to his brand new drive train while he was testing some other stuff for the workshop on the track. He was lucky to have walked away from the event. The car could have flipped, his limbs could have been amputated or worst. He paid (out of his pocket) close to $2k for another clutch to replace the irrepairable damaged clutch to speed up the repair process. He has been promised many times in the past 5 months that the job will be done after many certain events. However the due dates have never been met and there have been endless excuses.

My friend is sick of going to the workshop atm as he only get to hear lies and he is loosing his sanity. When he called the workshop manager, he always got the response that the manager was busy and will call back the following day or the manager has been very busy and has not had a chance to deal with what ever issues discussed and will call back the following day. There has not been any return call. There is no warranty offered at all according to the manager because " the car was on the track" and "we did not know that your original part will hold our weld". My friend still wait for the manager to confirm this with the work shop owners. He talked to the owners and he get to hear more promises.

My friend's car is currently parked in the car park. It's a convertible. The roof is fading away with the OZ summer sun and the car has not been washed for months. It costed my friend $2000 for insurrance, registration etc etc to have the car park there looking and smelling like a POS in the past 5 months. If he had any idea that it will take longer than this he could of cancel these expenses. I think my friend has aldready cancel these expenses last week. He is furious and is willing to pay top money for any hungry lawyers to get the job finish asap. Has my friend got a case and do you know of any good law firm? My friend knows a lot of law firms because he does a lot of workcover reports for them but any extra guidance is appreciated.

I have not got any good advise to give him at all beside calling the OCBA (http://www.ocba.sa.gov.au/).

If you are in dismay or having a good laugh at this....it is a true sad story and I am using his account without him knowing it. He is not stupid but he is being treated like a dumb c@nt by this workshop. Lets count to the day that he get a return phone call.

Oh I forgot, when the bell house's weld dissociated, the clutch and flywheel consequently separated at 9k rpm. The engine + fly wheel had momentum to reved to 11000rpm on the data log for a very brief few milliseconds. So the engine might be stuffed too :D

One would hope that any descent workshop will rush to the rescue with such circumstances and get the car back to the road/track asap. On the contrary, the repair process has been severely delayed and then the no warranty because you were on the track trick :

My blood boils for my friend.

Edited by 9krpm

Bugger, friend got hold of my laptop and see what happened !!!

Anyhow, what she posted is so true though. You can stretch friendship to a certain extend but 5 + months to repair a stuff up job is not on. As soon as I leave SA on Thursday and there is no promising sign of completion then I will let the OBCA and my lawyer deal with this. My precioius time has been wasted so much from this stuff up event :huh:

Sorry for the whinges guys.

Edited by 9krpm

v sorry to hear all this...can you also pm me the shops name. also im leaving of fri for the f1 also :fakenopic: i can get you in touch with a good lawyer if need my friend works as a lawyer for the biggest firm in adelaide so i can contact him but it sounds like you have it under control. somewhat

wot a tradgedy man i thought i had problems ...

BTW which workshop was it so i dont take my problems there and come out 2nd best

also have u had work done on ur front diff in the GTR or are we talking about a different car all together

also have u had work done on ur front diff in the GTR or are we talking about a different car all together

It's the honda that's having problem atm. I think most pple on here know which workshop the car is at.

For the skyline I will only go to Willall Racing. The front diff is not yet in as I had a late night on Saturday at a friend's engagement. The car still did 1:20, 1:21 at Mallala with me driving and 1:18 with Luke Youden in the driver seat.

PM shop to me as well.

Can we please do a sticky for workshops that actually do the right thing.

This type of treatment from any business is bullsh__, but when your talking high performance vehicles it's effing criminal. Literally. :P

you should be able to get the rego money back. I did this years ago, just had to sign a stat dec to say that the car had been off the road the whole time and they gave me a refund (minus fees)

can you PM me the name of the workshop

Good luck with it all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...