Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been looking for a while, seriously pushing for the last 6 months,

essentially i've wasted crap loads of time looking for a decen 33 25t

ever one i find seems ok until i have the inspection and has ended up with problems i would have to end up spending in the 3-4k mark after purchase

at first i was looking into importing but after reading crap loads of horror stoires and importing problems i decided against it as with my luck i could very likely end up buying a car i would either have to export or spend big dollars on

anyways i started out looking @ 32r's but decided against them for 2 reasons, 1, couldnt afford to insure one comprehensively, 2, if it had a major problem i wouldnt have a car for months cause i would need to spend big $$$ to rep it

so 33t's was the go, looking locally i've spent $$ on 3 inspections to find 3k in damage on ea, p.s. im no mechanic

so now after spending $$$ getting no where fast Im bac to wondering if the 32r with 3rd party an theft is the way

considering i was going to third party the 33t anyway

how long abouts before i have to spend money on replacement parts on a 32r i import?

besides good maintanence, IE pretty much part of compliance + timming belt anyway?

considering how many k's these cars have done

after importing your r's how long till you had to spend cash, like over 1k, (not including mods) and orc's

kind of lost and frustrated

Any car you purchase second hand will need work.... even if you have a full service history, cars are cars, and anything can break at any time.

Regardless of how well maintained the vehicle is (or is said to be), or how regularly it gets serviced, there are many costly things which will break/need replacing with little to no warning.

how old are you?

dunno about everyone else, but when spending $20K+ on a car, especially a GTR, I would like to know that my 'investment' is insured comprehensively.

If you crash it, how will you ever be able to fix it?

Every used car needs a bit of TLC after you buy it. If your not prepaired to get it up to your standards then dont buy it.

Your gonna be paying a butt load more looking after an R32 GTR then you would an R33 GTS-t.

should be quite easy to find a neat, clean and straight R33 GTS-t. They are everywhere!

If it means paying a little more for a good one, then do it, and save yourself the heart ache in the future.

how old are you?

dunno about everyone else, but when spending $20K+ on a car, especially a GTR, I would like to know that my 'investment' is insured comprehensively.

If you crash it, how will you ever be able to fix it?

You insure for potential outlays which you cannot afford.

You need to calculate the true value at risk and then make a decision whether to insure or not based on this. Refer my posts here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...62&hl=insurance

thats a good theory there Greg, and would apply greatly to younger drivers looking to get insurance on an import. If you were to get comprehensive insurance, i guess its a matter of finding someone who will offer to insure the vehicle for an agreed value, not the average market value perhaps, especially if its worth a substantial amount of money, eg $20K+

im 23,

for one, i dont plan on having an accident, but nobody does, i guess what im trying to say is, i have been driving since i was 13, thats 10 years without an accident, grew up with a SL-lx 308 tory modded with mates + families help, in otherwords i scrounge up the parts by working etc and they help me put them on or swap them out, trying to learn on the way but didnt pick up a hole lot on the fidly bits. hell good chunks are missing short of building a car, anyways, i drove that thing everywhere, on an off road, tracks mostly.

i can handle myself behind a wheel, (explicitly not saying i can drive but i can handle MYSELF !!) ie keep it off the roads.

"tune the nut behind the wheel first bla bla bla"

i've loaded the link and am reading, believe me when i say i would certainly rather get comprehensive but even for someone without a single claim or accident the insurance price i get from just car which is the cheapest so far, is plainly out of reach for a 25t let alone a R,

cheapest i could get for a 33T was 2400 and for a 32R was 2800, then add rego ontop of first year car purchase and im scrrewed

third party fire and theft believe me i didnt want to buy a car over 10k but there is sweet FA that is anything like i would enjoy,

thats a good theory there Greg, and would apply greatly to younger drivers looking to get insurance on an import. If you were to get comprehensive insurance, i guess its a matter of finding someone who will offer to insure the vehicle for an agreed value, not the average market value perhaps, especially if its worth a substantial amount of money, eg $20K+

Yeah it mainly applies to young drivers with high premium, high excesses and uninsurable mods (by that I mean legal but the insurance company doesn't recognise their value). Something I forgot to mention is the peace of mind that comes with comprehensive insurance... have to place some sort of value on that.

FYI I am now comprehensively insured. Just Cars valued my car at agreed value and my premium reduced enough to justfy it. However, it was still marginal whether it was worth it or not.

To be predantic, you should factor in the opportunity cost of the funds in the mean time as well - ie interest/return earned on their best alternative use.

problem is quality is literally 1k out of my price range, doesnt sound like much but basically no one will come down that 1 grand to my price, not without being a shitbox not worth 12k to begin with, second problem is there is someone out there that will pay 18k for that car not worth 12k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...