Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have them in my car and the improved handling is noticable, yet I meet other members and they haven't heard of them, its a bit hard trying to describe them because I really dont know what they do, although I know the difference of before/after.

BEFORE

When entering a corner I could feel the body move/angle over to the opposite of travel and then the shocks/springs dampen this effect.

AFTER

No body movement just springs/shocks doing their thing, still has body roll (until whiteliners are in)

So I assume that the pineapples fill or harden a soft (family car) spot in the setup, can somebody fill in the gaps for me? :wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/
Share on other sites

Did you put the 4 in or the 8 in. Are yours poly or aluminum?

I have 8x 4-5mm thick aluminium ones in, and I want to pull 4 out to see what it does. I dont think the 8 are really helping, just contributing to in cabin noise from the diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2054983
Share on other sites

sell em here for $99 per set, Bee R brand

http://www.otomoto.com.au/beer.htm

from the website:

Adding these bushes to the rear suspension cradle in any RWD Nissan (and GT-Rs) from 1988 to 2002 reduces cradle movement dramatically to give a more consistent, predictable feel to the rear end, which is especially valuable for drifting. By altering the static angle of the cradle, pineapple bushes also promote rear suspension squat for greater rear grip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2055222
Share on other sites

I wonder if someone can answer a related question for me on this.

There are 3 setups you can use pineapples for, Drift, All round, Drag

I think sydneykid posted a "where to install them" for each setup, but my question is...

The pineapples i bought came with 4 small rings and 4 large rings, if i'm setting it up for drift, do i use 2 small ones and 2 big ones and just not use the other 4? or do I use all 8??

And to anyone who uses them for "drift", how much does it effect oversteer? I'm wondering if i should just use the 'all round' setup for them, becuase i'm not having any major understeer problems, and i dont want to make the car too spin-happy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2057706
Share on other sites

I wonder if someone can answer a related question for me on this.

There are 3 setups you can use pineapples for, Drift, All round, Drag

I think sydneykid posted a "where to install them" for each setup, but my question is...

The pineapples i bought came with 4 small rings and 4 large rings, if i'm setting it up for drift, do i use 2 small ones and 2 big ones and just not use the other 4? or do I use all 8??

And to anyone who uses them for "drift", how much does it effect oversteer? I'm wondering if i should just use the 'all round' setup for them, becuase i'm not having any major understeer problems, and i dont want to make the car too spin-happy!

Apparently the setup for drift makes it stupidly slippery. Best to set it up for allround if you just want the subframe firm, or put them in with the Noltec subframe bush kit to set the subframe for traction.

4 small ones for traction according to whiteline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058009
Share on other sites

I dont remember what was put in mine but they are Purple and on the bottom of the subframe so its all round performance, nolathane bushes went in as well.

So I can say to the peoples that they reduce the cradle movement and give a more presice feel to the rear end.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058256
Share on other sites

Be carefull, the article in HPI/ZOOM is missleading.

The Otomoto kit only has 4 bushes. 2 large (not split) and 2 small (split). When you use the 2 small bushes below the subframe you have to tie wire them otherwise they WILL fall out.

As you can see from the instructions (copy following) the Whiteline kit has 6 bushes, 2 large (not split), 2 small (split) and 2 small (not split). The 2 large bushes do not need to be split as they are mounted below the subframe. The 2 small split bushes are for fitting above the subframe without removing the subframe from the chassis. The 2 small non split bushes do not need to be split as they are mounted below the subframe. Since they are not split, they WILL NOT fall out, ie; they do not need lock wiring

Whitleine_rear_subframe_instructions.jpg

For $5 extra I would buy the Whiteline kit, get the extra 2 bushes and avoid the need for lock wiring, which is not a permanent solution.

:P cheers :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058355
Share on other sites

Did you put the 4 in or the 8 in. Are yours poly or aluminum?

I have 8x 4-5mm thick aluminium ones in, and I want to pull 4 out to see what it does. I dont think the 8 are really helping, just contributing to in cabin noise from the diff.

I have 8 aluminium ones in (c type), and to tell you the truth - the noise does not bother me at all. You certainly notice it's there, but what's a little bit of noise on a sports car. If you don't like noise then you should get the polyurethane ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058461
Share on other sites

no offence Syd kid i have the otomotto kit and i have 2 large split and 2 small non split

Interesting, the sample kit I have has 2 large split and 2 small split

If the 2 small are not split, how did you get them above the subframe?

Remove the subframe?

Or cut the bushes?

:P cheers D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058460
Share on other sites

ok, thanks for the replies, but i'm even confused now...

the kit I have (alloy pineapples) has 4 large split, and 4 small not-split... (the smaller ones are the thicker ones yeah?)

so go figure!!!

I might give them a try in "drift" mode and if it's too spin happy i'll change them to "all round"

also, which way around do they go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058466
Share on other sites

http://www.driftshop.com.au/suspension_files/subframe.JPG

^ these are the ones I have....

is install different from the whiteline ones? I need to know the correct layout for "Drift" and "all round"........

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058476
Share on other sites

The whiteline ones are urethane, and are there to change alignment of the subframe.

The alloy ones u got there are designed to crush up the std bushes to stop flex in the subframe, without changing alignment of the subframe.

In your case i think the c ones go in the top, and the others go underneath, so its meant to fit without removing the subframe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111428-pineapples/#findComment-2058495
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...