Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone what's up.

I wanted to know if the sensor attached to the Catalitic converter is simply reads the temp of the exhaust or does it work like the O2 sensor in the turbo extension?

Basically I want to know if I can remove that cat sensor all together and not have it screw up any readings going to the ecu or, if I bang a pipe through the cat (so my exhaust is straight through yet still appears legal) and I leave the sensor would that do anything?

I appreciate the help on this one guys, thanks so very much.

Take care.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111640-cat-sensor-question/
Share on other sites

I can confirm it has no input to the ECU and to the best of my knowledge is simply a temperature switch which activates the dash warning light when things get a little hot.

I don't know what the fine in Canada is for gutting or removing a cat for a road registered vehicle but in Australia the fine is substantial ($10,000 for a company I believe) and therefore it would make most people think twice about gutting it or removing it!

Hope this helps,

Cheers

I can confirm it has no input to the ECU and to the best of my knowledge is simply a temperature switch which activates the dash warning light when things get a little hot.

I don't know what the fine in Canada is for gutting or removing a cat for a road registered vehicle but in Australia the fine is substantial ($10,000 for a company I believe) and therefore it would make most people think twice about gutting it or removing it!

Hope this helps,

Cheers

You helped me soooooooo much man, thank you. I was hoping it was something like that.

As for the fine, it's actually not to heavy a fine here and I don't go in to the "problem" spots where cops like to wait *cough*streetraces*cough* so most likely I'll be fine. I do appreciate your warning on it though.

Thanks again brother for everything.

Take care.

Cheers :)

  • 3 weeks later...

The sensor is nothing but a heat activated switch for the orange "cat light" on the dash. You can indeed cut the entire sensor off (I only have a wire on my car now after i cut mine off) with no ill-effects. Most after market cats do not have a bung for the sensor anyway.

cool and the plug hole for the cat itself?.. i didtn get a cap for it :D tryna find a bolt but cant find the right size (at home that is) haha

Remove the sensor from the cat and go to somewhere like Bunnings where they have those rack of nuts & bolts that you can check the thread size & pitch. To plug up the std sensor hole, just buy a bolt the same thread and length as the sensor and bolt it it in the cat. But be warned - if you just cut off the sensor wire from the car and leave the sensor in, there is a piece that is prone to (loudly) rattle around and give you the sh!ts.

  • 1 year later...

after those few ~38 degreee days of this summer, it seems the sensor itself has shit itself. the cat light in the cluster of my car is randomly flickering on and off.

i'm not thinking the cat has shit itself because i havn't seen any difference in performance. i've gone ahead and cut the sensor wire but the problem still persists.

i don't have any aftermarket managment like the powerfc so what could be the problem causing this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...