Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brand new RB25/30 long motor built by RB specialist, installed it last night and it has no comp on cycl 5! Holy shite. Very confident nothing got in it during installation and don't doubt the builders skills but what could it be? If I had to guess I assume it must be stuck valve but how? How does the hydraulic set-up work? Could they be not yet pumped up? After getting oil pressure up (took the inj fuse out and cranked) I started it for about 1-2 mins thinking the plugs where fouled and it would fire up on all 6 after a bit but no good... I don't want to run it anymore as all the fuel in the cylinder will be washing the bores clean and that would be bad.....Any ideas before I have to pull the rocker covers off and start to investigatagtion the top end first?

:)

This happened to my 25 when i rebuilt it. We got a little careless at the end of the rebuild and didn't check the lifters as they where fine when i pulled the engine down.

At least 5 or so where locked up and not letting the valve close all the way. Replaced them and its been running fine until now.

So that may be your problem too.

John

  • 2 weeks later...

Important Update!!!!!

Did a leak down test and found exhaust valves open on cyl 5 ! AHA! Pulled the cams out and wacked 2 new lifters in it (OW!$100 each from nissan). Put it back together and cranked it.........Beautiful-No 5 no probs.... but now no comp in 1 and 4.....WHAT THE? We chopped one of the old lifters in half and found some carbon in it so we think that the lifters must be sucking that crap into them when they pump up and can't bleed down thus holding the valves open. Looks like I need to replace them all!! We have been bleeding them down before assembling the head, this is the right procedure yeah? If we have to replace the lifters does anyone know of a cheaper supplier than oem? Anyone rebuilt heads with similar probs got any stories or techniques to share? Would love to hear your thoughts!

Cheers

P.S Still pretty happy its not terminal though....phew! :)

It has been suggested to me that this 'may' be the cause of my valve float, as occasionally on startup i get the lifter pump up miss. :)

I'd be interested if there is a cheaper than nissan way out of it.

Similiar year VG30 lifters are the same part number so that may be a start, well for myself with the R32 head anyway, possibly the US may have something aftermarket.

No idea...

Black_R33 has experienced a bad lifter holding valves open and now I'm being told that my problem may be partially my lifters due to a couple of symptoms; the all of a sudden valve float and lifter pump up i'm experiencing and the occasional same valve float lifter pump up miss.

No idea.. Will find out when the head comes off. I had planned to pull it off this mid term break, it won't be happeneing as I'd prefer to have a little extra money stashed away just incase it gets expensive. :S

Lifter pump up miss cannot be mistaken, its a different sound to an ignition or fuel miss.

I'm sure black_r33 agrees. :domokun:

Mc. Stocky... believe me I have fantasized about a nice solid lifter conversion + a set of gtr high lift cams... high lift = lots and lots of mid range. >_<:ph34r::)

Try a Wrecker.....

Could also be something trival like swarf (tiny filings) either on the valve seat or in the valve guide causing them to stay slightly open.

The head should have been pressure/vaccum tested before assembly - this would have detected it before you installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...