Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you can spend as much as you would like on it....

or are you asking how much you would pay for one?

- auto = cheaper

- is it a sedan?

- 2L? 2.5L?

- overall condition?

- how many km has it done?

- rust? dents?

- modifications....

once you can answer or address these kinda questions then you can start putting price figures down.

eug

Also whether you're buying from a dealer or a private seller.

I paid 12.8ish for mine from the dealer and it's a r33 95 or 94 can't even remember lol. Yes I could have gotten a better price from a private seller but, I got 2 years free servicing, 3 year warranty and something else which I can't remember either haha. :(

damn you aussies pay high prices for cars. i can pick up a manual r33 gts25t for like 12k privatly.

i know of one with less then 100,000ks, 19s, coil overs, good engine mods very tidy and the guy is only asking 13 or 14k and thats a sereies 2.

i paid 11k for my 97 gts(2ltr) manual 78,000ks 4dr. from a dealer.

damn you aussies pay high prices for cars. i can pick up a manual r33 gts25t for like 12k privatly.

i know of one with less then 100,000ks, 19s, coil overs, good engine mods very tidy and the guy is only asking 13 or 14k and thats a sereies 2.

i paid 11k for my 97 gts(2ltr) manual 78,000ks 4dr. from a dealer.

That isn't justified.. Only two prices have been stated here.. one 10k.. which is 1k lower than yours and mine, 12.8k. Your car is a 4dr ( 2.0 not 2.5) there's a reason for the .5-1k drop already.. and the styling is hideous on those four dour r33's... another .5-1k taken away. You can't generalise that we are paying too much for our cars with that argument. Even the one you "know"

"i know of one with less then 100,000ks, 19s, coil overs, good engine mods very tidy and the guy is only asking 13 or 14k and thats a sereies 2."

14k is alot for a gts regardless of the mods it has..You're not really investing in a GTS for the blistering performance, generally it's for cheaper insurance, love of skylines (regardless of turbo) etc.

Edit: If that 13-14k is in regards to a gtst it sounds dodgy even with the "less then 100,000ks, 19s, coil overs, good engine mods very tidy." If not it doesn't matter, we're talking about GTS' here.. Gtst's are everywhere.. r32,33,34 GTS aren't very common and so the market is in with more demand and less supply, thus the higher prices.

And back to Antonahu, you should be expecting to pay anywhere between 9-14k

Edited by ignuz

series 1 4drs are hidious. sereis 2 are not that bad looking. each to there own tho.

i have seen that gts25t and it is mint and not dodgy. hes only selling it so cheep so he can finish his supra powerd altezza.

14k for a gts is stupid. i would never pay that much for it.

im not here to argue.

im just saying on a whole you aussies seem to be paying higher prices on imports then we do over here. probly due to your govenment taxs

privatly r33 gts or gts25 sell for between 5-9k.

Mate the reason why there cheap as where you are is in fact you are from New Zealand and dont have any local car brands there and can pretty much import what you want. We cant get alot of cars you guys can get which explains why the ones we can get are dearer.

Perfect example is alot of non turbo variants of cars we get here for example S14 Silvias.

series 1 4drs are hidious. sereis 2 are not that bad looking. each to there own tho.

i have seen that gts25t and it is mint and not dodgy. hes only selling it so cheep so he can finish his supra powerd altezza.

14k for a gts is stupid. i would never pay that much for it.

im not here to argue.

im just saying on a whole you aussies seem to be paying higher prices on imports then we do over here. probly due to your govenment taxs

privatly r33 gts or gts25 sell for between 5-9k.

series 1 4drs are hidious. sereis 2 are not that bad looking. each to there own tho.

i have seen that gts25t and it is mint and not dodgy. hes only selling it so cheep so he can finish his supra powerd altezza.

14k for a gts is stupid. i would never pay that much for it.

im not here to argue.

im just saying on a whole you aussies seem to be paying higher prices on imports then we do over here. probly due to your govenment taxs

privatly r33 gts or gts25 sell for between 5-9k.

I didn't mean to sound aggressive BAD33 :rolleyes:

Was just voicing my opinion :(

You're lucky to get prices like that :D

all good man :P sorry if i got a bit defencive or anything. were all allowd our opinion.

yeah we are lucky we get such good prices. plus no power restrictions and we dont need a cat converter. insurance isnt too hard/expencive to get. oh and we also dont have random defect stations like you guys have.. well the ones i read about in aussie car mags...

lol. sorry just voicing my own opinion. hope i didnt offend you :D

i personally dont like series 1 noses that much unless its Mspec and been cut up, and the series 1 tail lights. plus some of the car colours they have... but thats just me. there will be stuff you dont like about series 2 4drs probly? its still a skyline in the end :P atleast you have a turbo one :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...