Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

23710-05U62 is the Nissan part number for the ECU

Could it be an N1 GTR chip?

How do I find out what it does differently to a stock ECU?

I searched google for the numbers and names on the plate but found nothing...

Could it be an N1 GTR chip?

How do I find out what it does differently to a stock ECU?

I searched google for the numbers and names on the plate but found nothing...

Hey mate, have you opened it up and had a look at the EEPROM and other chips in side?

If not have a look in side, now try not to touch the chips them selves around the metal legs where they connect on the circuit board. Static Electricity kills memory and some other chips,

Now write down what you see in there, stuff like any info on the EPROM and other chips ect… and Google that and see what comes up, there might be a sticker in there with some info. You might find something.

I do this all the time when aim installing old hardware in computers and don't have drivers for them,

I hope this helps

OK, I took some more pictures of inside the unit.

Notice the adjustable dial in the bottom left as well....

Ahh good work there, now about the dial i have no clue as to what that is for, Ill have a look into it and have a closer look at those photos

Yeah R33TOM, It came out of my R32 GTR, replaced with the PFC

I am pretty sure my engine is not an N1 engine because i had someone put the numbers through FAST. But if anyone wants this ECU I do have it for sale. :ermm: (I have no idea what its worth)

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...