Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my first post described the initial problem i was having... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=111605

so basically for no reason the car would almost stall (or actually stall) and then when it was re-started would idle about 2000rpm and then bounce between 1000 and 2000rpm... It sort of sounds like "limp-home mode"

then if i wait about 1-5min or if i shut it off and start it again soon, it would go back to normal.

I tried resetting the ECU and then cleaning my AFM yesterday, but the problem happened again today, so its not simply a 'dirty AFM'

BUT... this time it happened, i had my laptop (with nissan datacscan) with me! i plugged it in (but could not display the values for some reason?). i could, however, do a diagnostics test. It came up with AFM faulty

SO MY QUESTION IS THIS:

given people's ast experiences with AFMs, and that this problem seems to be intermittant rather than full time, is it likely to be

a) faulty AFM - has it happened before like this?

b) break in wire to AFM - thus ECU sees no signal

c) faulty ECU - somehow shorted the AFM circiut on the ecu board.. unlikely, as the problem is intermittant

And, if its the AFM unit itself, can i get a new one from nissan, and if so how much? or am i best to find a second hand one and hoping for a fully working unit?

I'm personally thinking its a dodgy solder in the AFM which has come loose, and causing it to intermittantly fail

i would really like some help here guys, as my car isn't driveable until this is fixed

cheers in advance,

Warren.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111844-ecu-diagnostics-afm-came-up-faulty/
Share on other sites

Dont bother buying a new one the old can be fix fairly easily and cheap.

Just get a nife and cut the top rubber seal out and remove the plastic cover.(Take your time as its a pain in the neck).

Then once the top is removed you will see a copper cover that is soldered onto the afm's circuit board box(also copper) Just desolder its join and take it out.

Now where the plug is you will see that it has 5 pins that go into a fork like peice of metal.

It is soldered to this and these joints tend to fail and require resoldering. Use a fine tipped soldering iron and resolder these joins. This fixes the afm probs 9 times out of ten.

Once done test it and if ok resilicon the top in and away you go.

I have done this to:-

my afm R32

My brothers AFM R32

My mates Subaru Liberties afm

And my mates 300xz afm and it has fixed them all.

If you know you afm is farked then give it ago as you will have nothing to loose.

Good luck and hope this helps.

As above possibly dry/cracked solder joints.

If the AFM circuit board looks ok. It can't hurt to check the wires for continuity as well to rule out potential breaks somewhere.

If all the above fails get a s/hand one off here from $50-$100 on average.

thanks heaps for your help guys

i only have moderate soldering experience, but want to give this a go tomorrow...

off to buy a fine-tipped soldering iron! (and some solder)

cheers,

Warren

Dicksmith or jaycar sell them for sfa.

You wont need an ultra fine tip just the common ones found at the above places.

When I get a chance I will put up a diy to fix an afm with pics and everything. Most likely after easter when I get my car back.

When/if u change to z32 afm you can actually use the same procedure to swap over the afm plugs so the Z32 plugs staright into you stock loom. Anyway enough of me rambleing on have fun and good luck.

ok i re-soldered it this afternon, plugged it back in, and it starts.. which is the first plus - that i didn't stuff anything else up

now to give it a test drive.. will post the results of how i go tomorrow

might also write a little "how-to" document as i took a couple of pics as i was going..

cheers,

Warren

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...