Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im thinking if putting my line to a auto not so sure at the moment i built the car to go fast in a straight line and im think if its a auto with the right gear i could knock 1 sec off a 1/4 mile time there abouts

i need to know the power rating of a auto box n what it can handle im looking at 350 rwkw so thats a heap more at he g/box

i also need to know how hard it is to convert i have a power fc to does that help

what gear should i use can someone help me out

if all is good i would liek to swap full manual conversion for something along these lines

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112027-auto-compaired-to-manual/
Share on other sites

have a talk to jamie at xspeed (in w.a.) or see a performance workshop in your area, i have just gone the other way as it is cheaper to go faster in a manual, but if you want to spend the coin, a auto would be better at bigger power levels.

Edited by Pal

if you want that power reliabily with an aftermarket ecu (such as pfc) then you should be speaking to some guys on calais turbo and find out how much it will cost to get a vlt box installed. they are pretty tuff and are mechanical (so wont be affected by ecu).

but what other mods do you have on your car?

theres lots of other ways to make the car quicker for the 1/4

without changing the geabox. an auto skyline would be so boring

VLT Jatco built by someone that knows them will handle the power and dont need to have any input from the engine ECU.Theres a car in WA thats done strong 10s with a Jatco using many Ford C4 race parts.

We tryed to put 500+rwhp thru a built Skyline Jatco 2 weeks ago,Box failed after 2 power runs.

Most Drag cars are Auto.

im thinking if putting my line to a auto not so sure at the moment i built the car to go fast in a straight line and im think if its a auto with the right gear i could knock 1 sec off a 1/4 mile time there abouts

i need to know the power rating of a auto box n what it can handle im looking at 350 rwkw so thats a heap more at he g/box

i also need to know how hard it is to convert i have a power fc to does that help

what gear should i use can someone help me out

if all is good i would liek to swap full manual conversion for something along these lines

u can use a trimatic auto get it tricked up with bigger clutches and manual valve body there is a custom bellhousing that u can get to make it fit to a rb series engine these autos will handle the power that u need when built right and the good thing is u dont have to worry about the auto ecu as they dont have one

ok well what mods do you have out of curisoity?

average power makes the car quicker so perhaps you could sort that out?

or even different ratios? lighter car? better to go faster with less weight than more power? nos? slicks?

i will be running slicks

sorry keep in mind this is a 350rwkw street car driven like evey second day i have a over size block port n polished head forged pistons high mount turbo t70 turbo and a shyt load more i have a locker diff to go in this week

i think i wanna keep the manual just in case i need to swap it if the auto breaks or if i sell it what prices would i be looking at does anyone have a idea

please keep the info comin

and whats the vic drag challange?

why dont you go the bottom end and make more power with displacement? if you want more power that is, im assuming? the vic drag day is a drag day at heathcote for sau vic members. we have booked the track for a "drag day" for our exclusive use.

what suspension mods have u got?

well atm im look at some drag shocks and something like 90/10 front for drags and also i have already built my bottom end very tuff

i dont really belive i need any more power i have a heap of torque i see 202's making hardly any power but can run a 10 / 11 sec 1/4

how much it cost for entry at the drags

Ill tell you know, if you can drive the auto right, its pretty quick through twisties and many other cars will struggle to keep up.

when i rebuild my auto, i will get keas to work on it. They say they have packages for whatever power needs you have.

350rwkw is good enough for a very mid-low 10 with a properly setup auto and slicks

Its car setup/weight dependant.

I've seen many a VL go through for a high 10 with 300rwkw

It isnt as cheap as manual to setup, but there is less stress on the drivetrain so diffs, tailshafts etc... dont break as often

Especially because your using slicks where a high rpm launch is gonna stress parts

yer well remeber this car is a daily car lol not to sure bout chassie work n shyt it seems that auto need attention all the time i wasnt goin to go the way of gtst box can anyone recomend the best box to run behind a r33 i was thinking of selling the car but i might keep it now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
    • @Stringycheese  Have you only gone to the one blue slip workshop?  There will be a heap of them where ever you live, good odds that the next place you go to will pass the car.  Unfortunately (or fortunately?) every blue slip / engineering workshop will be different and will be happy passing or failing different things - despite working from the same set of rules. It's kinda like 2 lawyers arguing over a piece of legislation, each saying their interpretation is correct. Might seem strange that this happens when it comes to getting a modified car passed, but this is very much a thing. A big part of the game is finding an engineer / workshop that is on the same page as you.
    • Bah. I daily mine. ~60km per work day, 10-12 thousand km per year. What's the point of having a dirty old Datto and leaving it in the shed. It needs to be driven and enjoyed while the govco allows us to do so. It will only be a few years before we're forbidden to even start up internal combustion engines.
    • Judging by that spring perch and the normal looking spring on it - not a coilover. Well.... it is a coilover, just a stock format coilover, rather than what everyone calls a coilover.
    • Yes it is. We get stock from Nismo directly. I'm happy to take photos/video of it as proof before I ship it with timestamps or whathaveyou.
×
×
  • Create New...