Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What brand is it? Different colour wires for different brands.

Basically it's one wire for power, one wire for ground and one wire piggy backing off the O2 sensor wire coming off the dump pipe. Best to make the join at the ECU pin out. (number 29 I think...can someone please confirm?)

Not sure why but I had a mate that bridged it at the O2 sensor at the dump pipe and it shorted his stock ECU. Besides, it's much easier to run a wire from your dash/ A pillar to your stock ECU rather than run a wire through your firewall and onto your sensor.

i agree with paul i have one and it does nothing good but jump all around when driving and nothing much else, get a oil temp or a water temp they are much more usefull in drive and knowing whats going on under the bonnet

If you have had a look at the wire on top of the 02 sensor it is thin as you would want to be very careful you dont cut it off.

i dont completly agree with paulr33 on this issue. yes in most cases it's not that great but when you are giving it to the car it does give you a good indication of how rich/lean your car is running however in day to day driving its crap like "let me drive" said it does just bounce all over the place

it will not give you an accurate representation of "rich" or "lean" im afraid. its too narrow and slow for anything "human" usesful. it is for ecu closed loop feedback to save fuel ecomony and nothing else. i certainly wouldnt use the value reported on the guage for anything other than a giggle factor when you boot it, cos all its going to do is show "rich" when you do, which if course is fairly obvious, of course its rich.

try a wideband sensor in the car with a guage and watch the difference, then its worth it. by all means do it, just dont expect anything useful from the guage other than rich lean bouncing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...