Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thejackal I'm currently researching upgrading my brakes too. Most ppl say that the stock R33 rotors and calipers are pretty damn good and that a good set of pads is the best value upgrade...so that's what I'm doing. Spend money on a good set of quality pads with high friction co-efficient and even get your rotors machined.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1122-brake-upgrade-options/
Share on other sites

At this stage I don't know much about this topic so I need all the help I can get.

What options do I have as far as upgrading the rotors, callipers, pads etc.

I have 18" wheels so I wouldn't mind getting bigger rotors that fill out the space. If I do this can I use the current callipers or should I upgrade the callipers too?

I don't have a budget on this yet but I don't want it to cost an arm and a leg. What brands should I look at? Does anybody have any of these items for sale at the moment?

I will worry about pads after I choose what I'm doing with rotors and callipers.

Cheers;)

Just to give you an idea..

I've looked through a few magazines and asked a few places.

Usually front slotted/cross drilled go for about $250+ (dba)

Another quote i got is from Racebrakes for a 33GTST

Front 296mm slotted $267.00 Each inc GST

Rear 297mm slotted $215.00 Each inc GST

Thats... say $550 not including install... and they're only just

upgrading rotors using the same calipars...

All i know is that if you want monster rotors and calipars...

eg.. AP... I hope you have a big pocket full of money..... :D

and if you do.. can i have some... :wavey:

I was looking at the same upgrade - I get too much fade at the track.

Has anyone done a major upgrade to their brakes? What were the changes and approx cost? How much better were they?

I'm sick of having to slow down after 5 quick laps!

Guest Stocker

Drilled rotors will definitely help, but you should really make up or have someone make up some decent cooling ducts for your front brakes. It makes a huge difference.

I don't know what model Skyline you have, does it have dust shields behind the rotors? If so, grab some tinsnips, cut them, and pull them away from the rotor, so it forms a sort of scoop. It's dirt cheap, but really works.

If you don't have dust shields, you'll have to fabricate a duct that clamps around the bottom of the strut....or you could shape up some foam and fiberglass up some shapes. I'll be getting around to this at some stage(I have an R31, they are the definition of underbraked!), have done this before on cars I have owned that are underbraked, and it makes a huge difference. You won't stop any faster, but your stopping power will be a lot more consistent.

Try to direct the air at either the centre of the rotor, or if your calipers are mounter forward of the strut, at the calipers.

This really is something worth doing, you will definitely notice an improvement.

Regards, Andrew.

I would have to say go slotted rotors. Currently my standard rotors have little hairline cracks. This is caused by heating the rotors up, then cooling down quickly.

Best bet, change fluid and get better pads. Sometimes fade is caused by the fluid boiling. If that's not enough, change brake hose lines to braided ones. This will stop the sponge feeling of the brakes under load. If this doesn't work, go rotors. If that doesn't work, calipers. And if that doesn't work, god help you!! Trick is, go the cheapest option, to the expensive option.

Most guys I know at the track with 33 gtst's have standard rotors/calipers and do good times. Just good pads and skills are needed to get good times. Ric Shaw (racer) only brakes 3 times when he's at Wakefield!!! Yeah.... :uh-huh:

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Ric Shaw (racer) only brakes 3 times when he's at Wakefield!!! Yeah.... :uh-huh:

OK, I'll bite.

I brake at end of the straight, into the top of the hill, down at the hairpin and onto the main straight.

So is Ric driving a Daihatsu Sirion, or did he crash on one of the corners?;)

I also seem to have hairline cracks on the rotors when I change the pads - they always need machining. I've done the pads and fluid, so I was thinking rotors next. Has anyone upgraded to larger rotors?

Duncan,

He did that in one of my mate's Toyota Celica. It was at the track day which I organised a while back. One of my friends was tailing him and counted 3 times when the rear lights flashed. They timed him and he did 1 min and 16 sec I think. That's damn quick considering the best he could manage before was 1:32, and 1:26 afterwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...