Jump to content
SAU Community

Cold Air Box

Guest Lojikl

By Guest Lojikl,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest Lojikl

Guest Lojikl

Posted
Posted

Ok, I'm sure its been posted a hundred times b4 but since I got no luck from the other forums i'll try again.

Does anyone have a template (or even some decent instructions) to build a cold air box around my pod filter.

I'm pretty mechanically challenged so if anyone has some good tips, that would be great.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11220-cold-air-box/
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

mate its pretty easy to make one from the aluminium foil backed foam from clark rubber. $23 per m.

After you cut that stuff out to fit, you have a template for a metal one should you want it to look pretty, or you could just cover the foam one with fibreglass resin and paint it.

The foam is a fantastic heat shield.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11220-cold-air-box/#findComment-188304
Share on other sites
BigDatto Proficient

BigDatto

Posted
Posted

Lojikl,

If scissors & tinsnips aren't too challenging, read on..

Make a template around your pod from cardboard, ensuring that the corrugations are vertical. trim it so when u close the bonnet there is say 1/2 - 1 inch clearance. Then at intervals of about 1/2" around the top edge insert 2" brads ( small bullet head nails) where your template meets the bonnet. GENTLY close the bonnet - pushing the brads further into the cardboard. You now have a PERFECT profile ! carefully remove your template, carefully unfold it, trace it onto sheet alloy, play "connect the dots" - to get the top edge & hey presto - full sick, custom, and SEALED. BTW the best stuff for the top edge is neoprene pipe lagging - same stuff used on air-con lines. $2.50 a metre from Clark rubber !!

I've done 3 like this on different cars & it's simple - just takes time...

here's my Proton GTi..

note the neoprene has taken the shape of the bonnet... airtight !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11220-cold-air-box/#findComment-188396
Share on other sites
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by JiMiH

And Jay: I don't suppose your template would fit an R32 would it?

Are R33s and R32s the same in that area? [/quoteJ

JiMiH - naaa, totally different. They look the same until you hold the template upto the R32 then you just scratch your head :)

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11220-cold-air-box/#findComment-189144
Share on other sites
Guest KILLER-T

Guest KILLER-T

Posted
Posted

and one from the top so you can get a idea on the size of it and for cold air induction i just let it suck cold air through the holes were the factory I/C pipes went through. i tried some of that silver flexi duct but once i reached 1bar it would start to fold up and become restrictive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11220-cold-air-box/#findComment-191247
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...