Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

As of this morning I was parking my car at work and I happened to kiss the gutter with my new GTR front bar leaving a nice 20cm long by .5cm high scrape! ... Anyway, having researched around to find my colour code.. I came across the following which may help others as it helped me..

R32

KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic

KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic

TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl

AH3 - Read Pearl Metallic

732 - Black Pearl Metallic

326 - Cristal White

KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic

BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order)

AN0 - Wine Red

R33

AN0 - Super Clear Red

BN6 - Deep Marine Blue

KH3 - Black

KL0 - Spark Silver

KN6 - Dark Grey Pearl

LP2 - Midnight Purple

QM1 - White

BT2 - Champion Blue

KP4 - Sonic Silver

AR1 - Super Clear Red II

R34

TV2 - Bayside Blue

QM1 - White

KR4 - Sonic Silver

KV2 - Athlete Silver

GV1 - Black Pearl

AR2 - Active Red

EV1 - Lightning Yellow

LV4 - Midnight Purple II

LX0 - Midnight Purple III

WV2 - Sparkling Silver

QX1 - White Pearl

EY0 - Silica Breath

JW0 - Millennium Jade

To the moderators: Maybe should go as a sticky somewhere ?

Cheers

-JD

Gay Gutters!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/
Share on other sites

Hey, my r32 was originally gun metal grey... but previous owner painted it Nismo Silver... which colour code is NIsmo silver... This would be handy when i want to paint my front lower lip and grill which i am replacing.

Any thoughts?

nismo silver is a nismo colour not a genuine factory nissan colour you would have to contact the nismo arm of nissan probably to get the code

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-2073995
Share on other sites

the other thread said qm1 is cloud white and the paint shop said its polar white, a paint used on nissans from 92 on. had the same thing on my sss, 1 book said electris blue, another said moody blue. don't really care about the name, just putting my 2 cents in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-2086369
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

im having problems figuring out whats going on, i looked up the paint code in the engine bay of my R33 and it says KH2, problem is that it is only listed in the R32's? whats going on??? it is a charchol grey colour S1, any thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-3166433
Share on other sites

im having problems figuring out whats going on, i looked up the paint code in the engine bay of my R33 and it says KH2, problem is that it is only listed in the R32's? whats going on??? it is a charchol grey colour S1, any thoughts

C'mon guys someones gotta know out there, surely someone has the same coloured car or could shed some light on this?? cant do anything about spraying the new bar until this gets sorted!! EDIT; no wunder i was having so many probs KH2 is supposed to be in the R33 paint codes section NOT the R32, problem solved!

Edited by madaz R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-3172464
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
im having problems figuring out whats going on, i looked up the paint code in the engine bay of my R33 and it says KH2, problem is that it is only listed in the R32's? whats going on??? it is a charchol grey colour S1, any thoughts

my 'gun grey' R32GTR is KH2!!.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-3753030
Share on other sites

For all you guys stressing out about what colour code their car is and why that list has their code listed under a different model... STOP STRESSING! It doesn't matter what year the car is or even what model, if it's a pulsar and it's white, and has the same as a 32 33 or 34 code which is white too, it just means IT'S THE SAME COLOUR!

Some coulours on cars have been continued throughout a series of cars for like 30 years! The name might change, but in effect it's still the same thing...

And if you're gonna get something painted and you're worried about the code, DON'T! The person who's painting it will know what the code is and if it's the right one... the only time they'll not know is if the colour has been changed and there's no evidence of a new code.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112210-colour-codes/#findComment-3756279
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...