Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok i am really interested but dont know jack. Appreciate if you could answer these questions to help us ignorant fools.

I have a pretty much stock R33 series 2. Which of these HID kits are suitable? I dont mind a slight blue tinge if its nice just so long as they are bright and white. So whats suitable for my car?

Why so cheap compared to kits i've seen advertised here for $800+ ??

Do they require any other parts or work to install that cost a significant amount? If so what is required?

Do they illuminate better than the stock lights? Not talking about colouration... road illumination. ?

As i said, very very interested, but need answers..

Hi.

1, if u want white colour . just go 5000K or 6000K, or if a bit blue then go 8000k they will fit ur car for sure

2, Directly from factory, no need to pay for the marketing, advertising, stuff, and office renting fees for the companies.

3. nop. but projector lens is prefered but not must

4. they way much better. i already used to hid lights and now if i drive anyother car with out hid i feel the lights so weak.

Ok put me down mate...H1 kit for my R33 S2. The only thing to work out now is do I go for 6000K or 8000K, I like the bluey tint and from what I can tell 6000K does have a blue tinge to it, 8000K is way more though is that right? What would you recommend?

Dont want cops on my ass regarding xenons.

EDIT: Put me down for 6000K x 1 kit. H1.

Edited by Sir-D

Thanks alot for your reply bankids.

So i need H1 for my R33 series 2? Series 2 has dual headlights so what impact does that have on this? I need 2 sets? ie i dont want my lights on and half the headlight enclosure looks white and the other half yellow.. ? Sorry, like i said, im a real noob.

I read the original WA thread cover to cover, didnt notice an install guide....

Very keen just wanna get my head around things.

Thanks alot for your reply bankids.

So i need H1 for my R33 series 2? Series 2 has dual headlights so what impact does that have on this? I need 2 sets? ie i dont want my lights on and half the headlight enclosure looks white and the other half yellow.. ? Sorry, like i said, im a real noob.

I read the original WA thread cover to cover, didnt notice an install guide....

Very keen just wanna get my head around things.

You dont use both of your headlights to light up the road with low beam... the outer ones light up with low beam, the inner ones are high beam... when you high beam the outer low beams switch off.

The H1 is for the outer low beams. Also you wont be needing high beams anymore as HID will take care of it.

here is that thread from WA:

H1_HID_Kit_Installation.doc

Hi eric.

coz this time 20 dollars express fee is added in the price and for the h4 hi/low . sry gave the wrong price for a long time .the h4s are 100 dollars higher than normall ones

the hi/low works with one bulb

the bulb is driven by a small motor in the bottom of the bulb base. the motor drives the bulb moving up n down to switch hi and low beams.

Whatdo you mean i wont be needing high beams anymore? If these HID globes that will replace my outer low beam bulbs are that powerfull and illuminate that far/bright, wont they piss off everyone i drive past at night?

Apparently not if you adjust them properly... these HIDs should be bright enough not to use high beam and frankly high beam on my R33 kinda blows...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...