Jump to content
SAU Community

How Do I Replace Headlight Globe?

DellieB

By DellieB,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

DellieB Rookie

DellieB

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone.

I've only recently purchased my 1997 Stagea and need to replace one of the headlight globes. I'm a bit of a girly girl, so have less than no idea about these things! :yes:

So, can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Thanks!

Dellie :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112252-how-do-i-replace-headlight-globe/
Share on other sites
DellieB Rookie

DellieB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi again.

Actually Terminal, I'm back to ask about the clip. I don't seem to have enough room for my hand to get in and access the clip to get the globe out. : Is there an easy way to do this? Hubby thought there might be a way to get the headlight out, but I think this is a bit extreme - we're talking about a globe!!!

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Dellie

Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

you don't need to remove the light. with the clip, just push it in, the turn it around slightly and it come loose. then you can remove the bulb easy. it's a bit tricky, but it idoes coem out. it's a bit of a spring to hold the blub in.

  • 2 years later...
Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

this doesnt work. ive uncliped the wire clip and the globe is still jammed in tight. i tried turning it (both directions) and it wont budge. i then also removed every screw around the globe and its still very tight. does this method work on series 2 or is there some other method?? ive searched several times for other info but every other thread is about xenons and doesnt mention how to remove the globe

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

1st remove plug from bulb 2nd unscrew black retaining ring (bayonet type, just a turn a/clockwise) this then reveals rubber boot (seal) remove, a closer inspection & you will notice bulb is held in by spring clip, remove bulb, bulb has 3 positioning pins

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted
1st remove plug from bulb 2nd unscrew black retaining ring (bayonet type, just a turn a/clockwise) this then reveals rubber boot (seal) remove, a closer inspection & you will notice bulb is held in by spring clip, remove bulb, bulb has 3 positioning pins

nope it wasnt anything like that. i removed the headlight for a better look and discovered that it was just jammed in there. so i grabbed the globe with a pair of pliers and gave it a wiggle and it came out. also the was no rubber boots or retaining rings.

i simply removed the grey cover off the back of the headlight by turning it a 1/4 turn anticlockwise which exposed the back of the globe. then i unplugged the wires off the globe and unclipped the retaining wire(i think u call this a spring clip), grabbed the globe with some pliers and pulled it out. the globe in my headlight is a h7 (which has 1 positioning pin) not a h4 (which has 3 positioning pins) like everybody else seems to have.

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

mine prob died from moisture too. weve had alot of rain latey(600mm over 6 months)and the importers did a dodgy job on the wiring when they removed the xenons. they just drilled a hole in the headlight and poked the wire through, leaving a big hole for moisture too get in. so i covered the hole with silicone. i dont know if it will work, but its worth a try.

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
nope it wasnt anything like that. i removed the headlight for a better look and discovered that it was just jammed in there. so i grabbed the globe with a pair of pliers and gave it a wiggle and it came out. also the was no rubber boots or retaining rings.

i simply removed the grey cover off the back of the headlight by turning it a 1/4 turn anticlockwise which exposed the back of the globe. then i unplugged the wires off the globe and unclipped the retaining wire(i think u call this a spring clip), grabbed the globe with some pliers and pulled it out. the globe in my headlight is a h7 (which has 1 positioning pin) not a h4 (which has 3 positioning pins) like everybody else seems to have.

weird how one model can be so different wether it's a s1 or s2,the 2 i've checked have had the same plastic retaining ring and rubber boot(obviously to stop moisture) but the way some are hacked when complied you could end up with anything

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...