Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon 14.5. Then if you run faster you will feel good about it.

Hard to say what the power is at the engine, maybe 260HP. What was the power before the unichip went on?

Go to the local drag strip and have a go. I could probably have a guess at the power based on the terminal speed you get then. Besides its just plain good fun to go drag racing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11255-uni-chip/#findComment-189487
Share on other sites

Tell me does the car feel any faster with the UNICHIP on, I'm curious coz mine didn't. After the so-called tune of the Unichip I was apparently making 198rwkw, not that it felt like it, so I took it along to a Skyline dyno day and only managed 165rwkw with the power curve all over the place. Needless to say I got my money back and fitted an SAFC, I returned to the same dyno where I made 168rwkw untuned(that's 3kw more than Unichip) and 188rwkw with the SAFC tuned. Although peak power only went up 20kw at one point in the rev range a 44kw increase occured, and that you can FEEL!

210rwhp is less than 160rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11255-uni-chip/#findComment-190759
Share on other sites

the car feels faster but not too extrodinary. I dont know if the power will deteriate or not but so far so good.

My car is pretty standard, I only put a pot filter in with cold air partition.

160rwkw isnt much at all, but I dont plan to drive it for too long.

what other mods have you done to your car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11255-uni-chip/#findComment-190777
Share on other sites

i would imagine that when using an external device between the ecu and the engine that when the standard ECU notices from (a) the o2 sensor that the mixture is too lean/rich and (B) the knock sensor detects pinging that more adjustments would be made to the fuel and timing respectively to get it back within bounds. if the unichip (really an interceptor right?) causes the ECU to detect these things woudln't it pull back futher?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11255-uni-chip/#findComment-193437
Share on other sites

Guest Peewee

no the piggy back ecu called unichip by passes the computer for fuel and ignition but still works within standard parrameters i.e correction maps they are rubbish and wouldnt fit one to my lawnmower as resolution on them is poor and without the ability to insert custom correction maps your chasing your taill. Save some money and buy an autronic!!! Also the tuner also has more to do with the power and how well the car runs than the actual computer itself cause a monkey on a motec is worse than stock ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11255-uni-chip/#findComment-193605
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...