Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 11 months later...

It's been a year and I finally got around to replacing the front speakers in my R32.. I bought some 6.5" splits and went to fit them tonight and there is no way in h*ll they are going to fit behind the factory grilles.

Initially I thought they would fit but when I checked the window mechanism it would have hit the speaker magnet. If I pull the speaker out a bit the surround will hit the edge of the grille. They need about 8mm more distance between the window and the door trim to fit.

I think my only option is to modify the factory doortrim to clear the speaker surround.

If I've got to do a custom buildout maybe I should go nuts and put in a pair of 8" midbass drivers I already have instead of the 6.5"s.

Has anyone here done custom door buildouts on aR32 before? Pics?

Thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
on another note. know any good sites with audio clearance sales at the mo?

i know webaudiodirect has some decent ones .

anyothers?

We are always having sales and to top it off we offer SFA members special rates anyway via mail order. To places you might want to look at:

Clearance because I need more room

Our specials page

:P:D

  • 2 weeks later...
i'm runnign a nakamichi 1000W 12" sub in the boot, alpine 200W 6.5" splits int he front (with spacers) both powered by a 4x200W Rockford Fosgate Amp, and a pair of JVC 6.5" in the rear running off the headunit for rear fill in. Had to put the fronts in with MDF spacers, the rest just bolted straight in.

Amp n subbie sit in the boot courtesy of a custom install/box.

Oh and there's an Esotoric Audio USA 1/2 Farhad capacitor just b4 the amp as well.

HI,

Just about your front splits.. are they the full blue 6.5inch (look like mini subs)?

Because i bought then for my previous car, and was thinking whether they fit into the R32 front doors...?

thanx,

And how exactly did you install them?

Cheers

Andy

  • 4 weeks later...

hey

i recently did a custom job and installed 6*9's in the front doors....had to get rid of the factory grill and cut out the door trims a bit. Also needed some plastic speaker spaces so the magnet wouldn't hit the window too. there are a few rattles, but once i get rid of those, it should sound excellent...doesn't take long once u know hwat you're doing too. Took me 3 hours for the left door and 30 minutes for the right one....

  • 5 weeks later...

I am getting some 6" speakers for my R32. It would be good to see what the spacers look like for the front doors (ie. pic's please).

At the moment I have no idea how i am going to fit them, and since I dont have them yet it just makes it that much harder to see how it will work.

If you want to keep the factory grilles you will need to chose your speakers carefully.

Boston and Eclipse both make pretty decent 4" x 6" coaxials that will screw into the factory pods with little or no modification.

Most 5.25" speakers can be fitted to the factory pods with a 3mm mdf spacer/filler plate.

Anything larger will probably need a custom baffle to replace the plastic pod.

Some 6"- 6.5" speakers can fit but some need to be spaced out so far to clear the window/winder mechanism that the doortrim won't go back on.

The top of the speaker can't be spaced out much at all because the top of the factory grille almost touches the inner door skin at that point so you will probably need to mount the speaker at a bit of an angle to get enough clearance behind.

It just depends on what sort of sound you are after vs how good you are with tools.

I'd recommend taking the doortrim off and taking the plastic pod with you when you go to buy speakers. The rain shroud on the back of the pod is a good indication of how much clearance you have inside the door as it uses nearly all the available space.

The other important thing to watch is making sure you have enough clearance in front of the surround when the speaker is operating as there is not much room behind the top of the grille.

reecey There may not be as much usable space as there appears.

Before you start make sure you lower the window while watching where the speaker magnet goes.

In particular watch the quadrant rack part of the winder mechanism as it intrudes into the speaker area. Also watch the stop on the lower window channel as it passes the back of the magnet.

Make sure the doortrim doesn't touch the surround as there's not a lot of front clearance at the top of the speaker.

Good luck with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...