Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the process of fitting a turbo to my venerable DR30. I can only modify it according to the homologation papers, but think that the homologated intercooler is a 600 x 300 jobbie. Anyway, looking at the front of the car, I can't really see where the intercooler piping goes.

Does anyone have any detailed pictures of the Fury DR30 intercooler setup? What about detailed pics of your own intercooler setup? I am particularly interested in the intake (driver's) side. Where does the intercooler piping come through?

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113311-fitting-an-intercooler-to-my-dr30/
Share on other sites

I am in the process of fitting a turbo to my venerable DR30. I can only modify it according to the homologation papers, but think that the homologated intercooler is a 600 x 300 jobbie. Anyway, looking at the front of the car, I can't really see where the intercooler piping goes.

Does anyone have any detailed pictures of the Fury DR30 intercooler setup? What about detailed pics of your own intercooler setup? I am particularly interested in the intake (driver's) side. Where does the intercooler piping come through?

Cheers,

Matt

the factory area for the DR30's intercooler piping to run is between the passengers headlight and radiator support. Im unsure on the factory Intercooled DR30's overflow bottle was kept due to the piping running thru there. That is where i have mine setup atm on my HR30. (i know its diffrent)

This pic here should clear everything up for you

http://r30map.zive.net/~userjun/nakao/08aug04image173144.jpg

Now that only shows the intake side

http://r30map.zive.net/~userjun/nakao/08aug04image173152.jpg

Full shot

http://r30map.zive.net/~userjun/nakao/08jul04image173122.jpg

no head light

http://r30map.zive.net/~userjun/nakao/05jun04image173122.jpg

Excellent! Thanks Stagefumer11. Good stuff (love those flares)!

Yeah, the factory side-mount intercooler is a bit of a bugger, particularly for me. Front corners tend to get damaged on occasion, and the original location is just begging to get hit by something.

I am still waiting to find out where the "homologated" intercooler's pipes run. There does seem to be enough room on the passenger side (as you have done), but the few shots I have seen of the Fury DR30 seems to have it's pipe coming from the driver's side (and I am stuffed if I can see where it would come from).

Keep those pics coming people!

Narp, the factory intercooler holes are very much like a 32/33 setup, through the inner guard on the passengers side...technically its illegal to put it through the front bulk head, cause its a structural support or so they say....

Mine's done pretty much like that one in the photo's, except my cooler to tb pipe work is in behind the drivers side headlight in the same manner as the passengers side is done in those photo's

Narp, the factory intercooler holes are very much like a 32/33 setup, through the inner guard on the passengers side...technically its illegal to put it through the front bulk head, cause its a structural support or so they say....

Mine's done pretty much like that one in the photo's, except my cooler to tb pipe work is in behind the drivers side headlight in the same manner as the passengers side is done in those photo's

That's right - I can't make any modification to the radiator support panel that unless it was homologated like that (ie. mods to allow the fitment of a homologated item) - hence the interest in the Fury Skyline pics.

I am interested to see some photos of your pipework Boof - I can't really see where the pipework would go without cutting a chunk out of a) the inner guard, or b) the headlight itself.

Cheers,

Matt

Well the factory intercooler was a tiny thing, not much different to a stock S13 intercooler and was tucked up under the front left inner guard.

From memory, the DR nose cuts I had, had 2 holes about 50mm in dia, just behind the stock airbox that were for intercooler piping.

As far as I know, in NSW the RTA will allow mods to the radiator support panel, but holes have to be reinforced like we were supposed to in the early days when cutting holes in tunnels for floor shift conversions.

If that isn't suitable, isn't there enough space for the piping to be compressed slightly and be channeled under the head lights, as the hole in the rad support panel is huge when Iron Mask lights are being used.

Well the factory intercooler was a tiny thing, not much different to a stock S13 intercooler and was tucked up under the front left inner guard.

Yeah, I am trying to avoid using the factory one if possible. It is quite tiny, and being under the front guard doesn't really help (airflow, damage, etc...).

As far as I know, in NSW the RTA will allow mods to the radiator support panel, but holes have to be reinforced like we were supposed to in the early days when cutting holes in tunnels for floor shift conversions.

It isn't the RTA that I am trying to please, it is CAMS (as mentioned in the other thread). Any cuts will definitely be reinforced just as you suggest.

If that isn't suitable, isn't there enough space for the piping to be compressed slightly and be channeled under the head lights, as the hole in the rad support panel is huge when Iron Mask lights are being used.

The car is an early DR with the front like a domestic MR30. I would like to continue to use it if possible because of the availability of these parts. I can imagine alot of Iron Mask owners out there being quite cranky with me if I kept snatching up all of the available headlights, bonnets,bumpers and grills because I kept damaging them! :( There is no real problem with me losing the high beam units in order to fit the intercooler piping, just as long as that was where it originally went.

Anyone got a scan of that article in Zoom? Does that have some piccies? PM me if you have something that I may be interested in seeing...

Edited by Matty T
Anyone got a scan of that article in Zoom? Does that have some piccies? PM me if you have something that I may be interested in seeing...

The pics in ZOOM 53 show the radiator moved back onto the motor to allow the piping to go through the hole (original radiator placement) in the support panel.

I'll try to get some scans done today and post them tonight.

Cheers,

D

The pics in ZOOM 53 show the radiator moved back onto the motor to allow the piping to go through the hole (original radiator placement) in the support panel.

Somehow I knew you were going to say that. What a bugger of a job. Thanks Ghostrider.

i run a 600mmx 300mmx 75mm fmic and have the piping coming back up through where the factory air box was, both pipes come back up through the wheel arch, the return pipe comes back behind the core and up, the HR30 i have had the 2" factory holes under the air box which were made bigger into one hole. the core inlet and outlet sit below the front bar surport..

pics are on here somewhere...

Edited by rsx84
That's right - I can't make any modification to the radiator support panel that unless it was homologated like that (ie. mods to allow the fitment of a homologated item) - hence the interest in the Fury Skyline pics.

I am interested to see some photos of your pipework Boof - I can't really see where the pipework would go without cutting a chunk out of a) the inner guard, or b) the headlight itself.

Cheers,

Matt

Go and suss www.pbase.com/stnzaboy/dr30, and my intercooler pipe work pics are on there....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...