Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a set of stock R34 GT-t rims for sale.

I believe they are 17 x 7.5, 114.3 PCD and +40 offset.

These rims should fit R33's, and R32's without any problems.

On 2 rims there is 1 scuff mark on each of them (see pics). The rest are fine. A very strong (R34 rims are forged steel I believe) and nice looking wheel.

The rubber on them are 225/45/17 Yokohama / Advan DNA GP. These are the same spec to the aussie versions which are called the EVS100. Excellent tyre, both in the wet and dry. Could not make em wheelspin in the dry, in the wet, could get em to break traction when flooring first gear only. There is a good 40-50% left in these tyres.

They came off my R34, but have attached a pic of what they look like on a R33, R32 and S15.

Located in Sydney, price is $750.

post-7128-1145250124.jpg

post-7128-1145250138.jpg

post-7128-1145250153.jpg

post-7128-1145250162.jpg

post-7128-1145250196.jpg

post-7128-1145250219.jpg

post-7128-1145250243.jpg

post-7128-1145250322.jpg

post-7128-1145276727.jpg

post-7128-1145276738.jpg

post-7128-1145276793.jpg

Edited by nuffsaid
  • 2 weeks later...

Do you ship to Brisbane & can you please give me a quote. Will you swap R33 stock 16" mags + cash? Lastly how deep is that main scratch? Surface or a few mm deep?

I dont know how much shipping is to Brisbane, but I think it would be at least $100. I dont mind shipping but its at the buyers expense.

Also the main scratch is just a surface one, it doesnt really get into the alloy itself. But it cant be buffed out by the looks of things.

I dont know how much shipping is to Brisbane, but I think it would be at least $100. I dont mind shipping but its at the buyers expense.

Also the main scratch is just a surface one, it doesnt really get into the alloy itself. But it cant be buffed out by the looks of things.

What's the best price you can do? You are going to have to come down in your price because those scratches are too big and there isn't enough tread left to demand that price. my email is [email protected]

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, nothing formal, just open track days. Mostly small and tight circuits but I would like to get back out to Eastern Creek at some stage.
    • What type of track driving will you be doing?  Do you have a set of class rules you need to abide by that will limit your rim / tyre width?
    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...