Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi 'liner's, been a while, hows it all...............er.....anyways! (Guess that means my line is going ace!)

After doing a little searching/reading of our wonderful forumns, I have determined that it is my starter motor making some wonderful, pre-historic bird type noises, after successful ignition (screeching noise lasts for upto 1-2 seconds after she starts).

At first, I thought it was fan belts, now I believe it's the starter(?). (tightened belts, lubricated them just to check, cleaned up afterwoulds).....noise still exactly the same.

So, 3 questions/queries........

A) Would u concur with my comments thus far, that it looks like the starter may not be 'recoiling' back?

B) I imagine, by looking at this part of the car, that removal of the starter would best be done from under the car(?).....Would u agree? (1995 series 1.5 R33 GTS-t)

C) I plan on removing the starter and cleaning it majorly (strip it as best I can) and lube it. (Worth doing?....any problems foreseen by you people?).

Hey Guys....thankyou in anticipation.

Maybe someone knows the price of install/part too......justin'

Up the 'irons!!

Mark, Superspit.

DON'T BOTHER, NOW TAKING TO MECHANIC!!!!!!

Edited by superspit
Its because the gear in the starter motor is not being pulled back after you release the ignition key. Probably needs a fresh grease - if not buy a re-co starter motor.

ta MR33....yeah, that's the same tact I'm taking....so far. What do you reckon guys?

yup my 33 just started doing that... Exactly the same noise as you are describing.. im planning on removing mine and giving it a nice grease up

there you go!....thanx man.

Do you know what ur up for.....work wise? Will u be going in from down under, or from above.

Any info u know about actual removal would be further appreciated!

Mark.

hmmm i havent looked into it too much as i dont drive the car anymore... im just getting it ready for sale... however i had a quick look the other day.. starter motors only usually have 2 bolts holding them in.. bit tricky coz its on the side of the bell housing .. running next to the gearbox

im fairly sure only way to do it is from below!

i'll give it a crack and let you know how i go

shouldnt be too hard.. i replaced the starter motor on my old rwd 626 lol

-Ruffels

dude my car done exactly the same, all i did was take out the started motor and found that the gear on the shaft was not lubricated and had minimal play. all i did was put some grease on the shaft, hooked it up to a battery let it go off a few times and WALLAH.....

dude my car done exactly the same, all i did was take out the started motor and found that the gear on the shaft was not lubricated and had minimal play. all i did was put some grease on the shaft, hooked it up to a battery let it go off a few times and WALLAH.....

Dooooooooode! This sounds very 'heartening'.....I'm giving it a bash over this weekend.

Got my chassis stands and 13-14 mm socket/spanner etc.....can't wait to see if mine fixes like yours!!

Thanx Dooooooooooode. :(

Mark.

  • 1 month later...

any idea on which parts of the starter do you lube up?

and how much grease you should apply?

im assuming its that big copper thing that pops out?

or the magnet things inside the motor?

im seriously clueless into what needs to be lubricated?

can anyone give me advice

Had the same noise, starter gear was stuck in "mesh"...

Had the whole thing reconditioned and now works perfectly... total cost was around $250..

not sure if i got ripped off but that how much i payed for it...

Edited by jakegts
BUMP! SORRY!

DON'T BOTHER, NOW TAKING TO MECHANIC!!!!!!

$115.50 ..............fantastic,,,,,,,,,,,,couldn't do it cheaper myself, and not get frustrated and break something else!

My honest mechanic Pulled unit out, cleaned out 11 years of crap, lubricated all moving parts, bench tested, re-installed.

That's it! Like new now.

Unless you're tooled up..(and I thought I was)............don't bother doing this yourself!!

Good that you got it fixed and cheaply too.

I managed to remove a starter motor from a FWD pulsar, the starter motor is under the inlet manifold, and to get to it, all the inlet piping before the throttle butterful had to be removed to get to the botls. Then the car had to be jacked up and remove starter motor from underneath. I found it too be the bushes had worn right out and were scraping on the commutator, so it was still starting with lots of screeching. The bushes on the starter motor usally last around 90k - 100k Kms.

I would think that starter motor from a RWD car would be much easier to remove being on the side of the bellhousing in the trans tunnel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...