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Hi ppls,

I'm looking in to diff ratio's and diff swaps for my R32 as the std VLSD open wheels and the ratio is too low (numberically high) for the RB30.

I've been looking at a 3.69:1 ratio as for the way I drive it appears the turbo will be spooling perfectly as I leave corners etc. + the added advantage of improved economy with PULP soon to hit $1.50 per litre. :D

I've spoken to a few diff rebuilders and to simply swap a pinion and ring gear they want around $300-$400 + the gears which I can pick one up for $150, then I need to drop a decent center in it, possibly a GTR mech center for $550. So its going to work out fairly expensive.. $1100 or there abouts for a decent center and ratio change.

I then came across one diff rebuilder that said why not look at dropping a early 90's Z32 TT R230 in to it. They run the ratio I am after and with a few little modifications they bolt up.

'Apparently' swap the input flange and solid mount the front rubber bushes, the early Z32 R230's run the 5bolt half shafts. It sounds too easy as I'm sure the R230 I had a quick look at looked wider than my R200.

Has any one had any experience with the R230's or has access to one that can check out the rear cover plate?

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Hi ppls,

I'm looking in to diff ratio's and diff swaps for my R32 as the std VLSD open wheels and the ratio is too low (numberically high) for the RB30.

I've been looking at a 3.69:1 ratio as for the way I drive it appears the turbo will be spooling perfectly as I leave corners etc. + the added advantage of improved economy with PULP soon to hit $1.50 per litre. :D

I've spoken to a few diff rebuilders and to simply swap a pinion and ring gear they want around $300-$400 + the gears which I can pick one up for $150, then I need to drop a decent center in it, possibly a GTR mech center for $550. So its going to work out fairly expensive.. $1100 or there abouts for a decent center and ratio change.

I then came across one diff rebuilder that said why not look at dropping a early 90's Z32 TT R230 in to it. They run the ratio I am after and with a few little modifications they bolt up.

'Apparently' swap the input flange and solid mount the front rubber bushes, the early Z32 R230's run the 5bolt half shafts. It sounds too easy as I'm sure the R230 I had a quick look at looked wider than my R200.

Has any one had any experience with the R230's or has access to one that can check out the rear cover plate?

hey buddy, a friend of mine bought a z32 diif to put in his cefiro (same subframe as r32) apart from the half shafts being 6 bolt, and the input being different also, there is know way it will fit in your subframe, its just too wide, aand you cant swap backing plates with a r200 (comlpetely differnet).

The only option, which he is looking into, is getting a z32 subframe. looks like it may bolt up. As for early z32's haveing 5 bolt driveshafts, my g'f has a 1889 tt zed and its 6 bolt.

Possibly the early model non turbo diff has 5 bolt.

hope that helps

What would be the best bet for a mate of mine with an R33 and the similiar problem to you Cubes... Except his RB30det is worse as he's putting an auto into it aswell.

Whats the best bet for higher ratio R33 diffs.. Would Z32, 3.69 ratios bolt to the standard R33 VLSD centre?

r33/32 all use an r200 diff (meaning 200mm crownwheel)

As long as as the crownwheel and pinion are from a r200 diff then all ratios are interchangeable.

There are heaps of r200 ratios available 3.69, 3.9, 4.11, 4.3 and more...

AS for the 3.69, u need the cw&p from s13's as they run r200's (3.69 auto 3.9 manual)

Edited by Bl4cK32
r33/32 all use an r200 diff (meaning 200mm crownwheel)

As long as as the crownwheel and pinion are from a r200 diff then all ratios are interchangeable.

There are long nose (up to r31, z31 &s12) & short nose (from r32, z32 & s13) R200's & you can only interchange between the right length.

Carlos

  • 8 months later...

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